Hollandaise Sauce That Takes Note of USDA Warning on Raw Egg Use

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has issued a bulletin recommending consumers “avoid eating raw eggs and foods containing raw eggs.” This action was prompted by recent outbreaks of food-borne illness caused by raw eggs contaminated with Salmonella enteritidis (please see related stories on Page 1 and below).

One of the many recipes affected by this recommendation is Hollandaise Sauce. For years the blender provided a quick and easy way of making this classic sauce, but now the USDA warns against using this method because the egg yolks do not undergo any cooking. To eliminate any risk, consumers are advised to use canned or packaged Hollandaise sauce, or prepare it by the traditional method.

In “McCall’s Cooking School--Step-by-Step Directions for Mistake-Proof Recipes” (McCall Publishing Company: 1976, $9.95) Mary Eckley, food editor and Mary J. Norton, associate food editor, present a method of making Hollandaise Sauce that uses solid rather than the traditional melted butter.

Three egg yolks are placed in the top of a double boiler and beaten with a wire whisk (Step 1). Two tablespoons of cold water are whisked into the eggs (Step 2) just until blended.

Whisked Constantly

The egg/water mixture is placed over hot, not boiling water, and whisked constantly until it begins to thicken, about 1 minute. It’s important the water in the double boiler be kept just simmering to prevent the sauce from overheating and curdling. Should the water begins to boil, quickly add a little cold water to cool the temperature.

Butter is then added, one tablespoon at a time (Step 3), keeping the water at a simmer. The mixture is beaten continuously after each addition until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth before the next piece of butter is added. It takes about five minutes to incorporate all 8 tablespoons of the butter.

Remove the double boiler from the heat and slowly whisk in the lemon juice (Step 4). Then add the salt and cayenne and continue beating until the sauce thickens.

Hollandaise Sauce is best used immediately, but you may keep it warm for a short period by adding enough cold water to the hot in the bottom of the double boiler until it is just lukewarm, replacing the insert with the sauce and covering the top. Use within 45 minutes.

If, while making the sauce, it becomes too thick and looks scrambled or like it’s going to separate, remove the pan from the heat, place it in a pan of cold water and whisk constantly until smooth. Should the sauce curdle slightly, it may sometimes be rescued in a blender, although the texture will probably not be as smooth as an originally well-made sauce.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

3 egg yolks

2 tablespoons cold water

1/2 cup butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon salt

Dash cayenne pepper

Place egg yolk in top of double boiler. Beat yolks with water just until blended. Cook over hot, not boiling, water, stirring constantly with whisk, until mixture begins to thicken, about 1 minute. Hot water in double-boiler base should not touch bottom of insert.

Add butter, 1 tablespoon at time, beating continuously after each addition until butter is melted and mixture is smooth before adding next piece of butter.

Remove double boiler from heat. Slowly whisk in lemon juice, then salt and cayenne, beating just until sauce becomes thickened. Makes 1 cup.

Suggestions for column topics may be sent to Back to Basics, Food Section, The Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles 90053.