Venerable Hotels : Elegance and Pampering in a Traditional Fashion

Lodging for the night is not difficult to find in the Southland. The weary traveler is never far from a comfortable room with a decent bed, good reading light and television set. In the bathroom there’s a little gizmo for making tepid coffee and an ice machine is nearby. This is exactly what most people need and want, yet there are times when it is not enough, not nearly enough.

All of the following fine hotels cater to your every whim and vagary. They know how to do it. Most of them have been in business a long time, some for more than a century. These are the places to visit when something special is called for--a honeymoon, anniversary or, perhaps, a sudden desire for luxury and a bit of pampering.

These places cost more, but many offer special mid-week or weekend rates. There are many, many others in Southern California. This sampling is just to get you started on a search for one that satisfies your desire for gracious and elegant living.

The Biltmore Hotel, 506 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 624-1011. Harry Truman slept here, and this is where John F. Kennedy decided on Lyndon Johnson as his running mate. The Beatles hid out at the Biltmore during their first U.S. tour. Here the Liverpool lads got a little help from their friends, the staff of the hotel, and in no time had their feet back on the ground.

The reputation of the hotel is such that its name has become a generic word for quality. To say that anything is the Biltmore of its class means that it is the best. You will see it and feel it strolling along the magnificent galleria or visiting the Gallery Bar, where the billiard table is 100 years old.

La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect St., La Jolla, (619) 454-0771, (800) 451-0772. This is the jewel of La Jolla, a pink and pretty hotel that overlooks the ocean. It is noted for its outstanding service and Mediterranean charm. The hotel is furnished with antiques and, believe it or not, there’s a real live elevator operator. Even the luggage carts are custom-made of marble and brass.

Nobody can resist the jigsaw puzzle in the lounge. It’s an old, cherished La Valencia tradition, although one naughty lady many years ago fell in love with it and brazenly walked off with it. The puzzle is back, ensconced on a table where hardly anybody can manage to pass by without trying to add a piece or two.

La Valencia opened on Christmas Day, 1926. It has maintained its policy of keeping the best of the old while embracing the best of the new. Chosen as a member of Preferred Hotels Worldwide, it has joined the company of the Dorchester in London, Tokyo’s Imperial and Le Bristol in Paris.

The Inn on Mt. Ada, 1 Wrigley Road, Santa Catalina Island, (213) 510-2030. When millionaire William Wrigley built a fabulous mansion for his family in 1921, he did not choose the site lightly. The house was placed high on a hill where it would catch the first and last rays of the Catalina sun.

Most of the rooms have fireplaces, and every morning there’s a hearty country breakfast. After a day of activity, there is high tea or wine and hors d’oeuvres. Fabulous dinners are served in the small, intimate dining room. Complimentary golf carts are provided for all guests.

Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, (619) 435-6611. Somebody with nothing much to do all day once counted this hotel’s windows. There are 2,372, but even this intrepid soul did not go on to count the many towers, turrets and cupolas.

The architecture of this Victorian-style wooden building is magnificent. A 1986 edition of a Rand McNally guide book noted that the hotel “enjoys more fame and historical significance than perhaps any other hotel in North America.”

The Crown Room is a masterpiece, built without nails or interior supports. The chandeliers were designed by Frank Baum, who worked on his “Oz” books here. Elaborate meals are served nightly in this lush wood and damask setting. As a haven for relaxation and resort activities, “The Del” is hard to beat.

Four Seasons Biltmore, 1260 Channel Drive, Santa Barbara, (805) 969-2261. Once the private estate of copper baron James Douglas, this glorious hotel manages to be both casual and sophisticated. Its classic Spanish-style buildings are red-tiled, and there are also exquisite Portuguese tiles and wooden balconies, and patios surrounded by sweeping lawns.

There are stately palms, huge oaks and blooming flowers. There are two swimming pools, an attractive beach, lighted tennis courts, a putting green, shuffleboard and croquet. Doing absolutely nothing is a popular pastime.

Horton Grand Hotel, 311 Island Ave., San Diego, (619) 544-1886. The classic antique furnishings, oak-paneled walls and intricate wood carvings will remind you that this charming Victorian hotel first opened in 1886.

You enter the Ida Bailey Restaurant, named after a flamboyant San Diego madam, through the sunny atrium. The Victorian wicker furniture of the atrium is a sparkling white, and all of the chairs and couches are deep and comfortable. Colorful flowers abound. Each guest room features an antique headboard, a fireplace and authentic bibelots of the period.

Hotel Laguna, 425 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (714) 494-1151. There’s a family from Texas that has rented a room here every summer for more than 40 years. They, like so many others, recognized a good thing when they found it. All rooms overlook the ocean or the mountains, and there’s a lovely private beach.

During the 1930s and ‘40s, this was a popular hideaway for a host of Hollywood notables. Evidently, Garbo wasn’t the only star who wanted to be alone. John Barrymore, Joan Fontaine, Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall and Errol Flynn all were regulars.

Visit the lounge where a “Bogie” cocktail is available. The glass is inscribed, “Yes! Bogie and I drank here.” It is yours to keep.

San Ysidro Ranch, 900 San Ysidro Lane, Montecito, (805) 969-5046. When John F. Kennedy and his bride, Jacqueline, stayed here on their honeymoon, they are reported to have requested “No calls, please.” This establishment has been considered one of the ultimate experiences in luxury living since its opening in 1893.

All of the cozy cottages feature wide porches and romantic fireplaces, and many have whirlpool baths. The beautiful gardens are a collection of venerable trees, fragrant jasmine and honeysuckle. Children are spoiled here, and well-behaved pets are welcome.

Hotel Queen Mary, Pier J, Long Beach, (213) 435-3511. It has been more than 50 years since the ship was launched. King George V christened her, and a psychic, Mabel Fortescue-Harrison, made a startling prediction: “The Queen Mary will know its greatest fame and popularity when she never sails another mile and never carries another paying passenger.” It all came true. More people have walked her teak decks in Long Beach than in all her time at sea.

The Queen Mary offers the romance and excitement of an ocean cruise without ever leaving port. The 363 staterooms, in what was once the First Class section, are the largest ever built, complete with wood-paneled walls and portholes.

The Observation Bar is one of the most popular attractions on the ship, with its captivating Art Deco furnishings, many original. Guests of the hotel receive a 50% discount on a tour of the Queen Mary and of Howard Hughes’ gigantic Spruce Goose nearby.

The Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, (213) 276-2251. The city of Beverly Hills is celebrating its Diamond Jubilee this year. It’s 75 years old, but this posh hotel marked its 77th year May 1. It has flourished right along with the movie business ever since that industry began.

Elizabeth Taylor has always stayed here (except for the time when she was married to Nicky Hilton), and Howard Hughes rented four of the picturesque bungalows. He needed four--one for himself, one for his wife and two for decoy purposes.

The Polo Lounge was named in honor of Will Rogers and other polo enthusiasts. You can’t help wondering what the homespun Rogers would think of the power breakfast served here. The choreography of this daily ritual is delicate and complicated.

The room is small, yet everyone must be seated in his or her proper place, according to a strict hierarchy. Surely, if the Beverly Hills Hotel did not exist, it would have to be invented.