CUISINE THAT’S CLEARLY OVER THE LINE : If You Don’t Ask for These Delicacies By Name, You’re Going to Be Missing at Least Half the Fun

Grant’s Grill is a trendy restaurant located, temporarily at least, at the west end of Fiesta Island on Mission Bay.

It claims to be the poshest of the posh spots there.

There were Dana and Mary Jones of Aspen, sipping expensive wine while their caviar and champagne chilled in the cooler.

Heidi Olsen, a 6-foot-5 blond model from Dallas, was there attracting the paparazzi .

Mayor Maureen O’Connor was a guest waitress (serving Mo Dogs, $1.75), and Steve Garvey was there being Steve Garvey, cool as always.

It seemed, in fact, that everybody was there to take in the pleasures of San Diego’s other zoo. The 36th Old Mission Beach Athletic Club World Championship Over-The-Line Tournament opened Saturday and continues today and next weekend.

And yes, Garvey is getting abused in the team nicknames.

OTL is an abbreviated game of softball, played by three to a team, on sand, with no bases. The games are serious athletic contests, but the atmosphere surrounding them traditionally is not.

(Note: “Winless & Untied in Seven Years,” a team from Orange County, won a game for the first time in 15 tries Saturday morning and will now have to change its name.)

In addition to Grant’s, there are three other restaurants on the island, each with its own ambiance, selection and prices, compliments of the good people at the OMBAC (“We never have any fun”). This is, after all, Fiesta Island. And what is a fiesta without food?

Grant’s, as suggested, is the most popular. It also happens to be near the main entrance, the pairings board, the T-shirt stand and most of the portable restrooms.

Its patrons consume about 40% of the food eaten at the tournament, according to Fat George (Jim Morrell), the official commissar of hot dogs, better known as OMDOGS.

Said Fat George (who may have to change his name after losing 40 pounds recently), “We get all the guys who think they’re celebrities here. But after a while, we kick ‘em out. We’ve insulted more celebrities than anybody.”

Fat George says the crowd will eat close to 20,000 hot dogs this weekend alone, washed down with 300 tanks of soda.

And how are they? “Doesn’t beat a Dodger Dog,” said Mark Porter, 24, of Los Angeles.

Directly across the strip is Warsaw East, which specializes in Polish Dogs, $2. Warsaw offers the greatest selection and the biggest price range.

The abbreviated (for print) menu includes: OMDOGS, $1.75. Honest Tony Rolodex Dogs, $25,000. Padre Pennant Dogs, impossible. Ollie Pardon Dogs, suspended. Exxon Blackened Otter Pups, $1.59/gallon. Pete Rose Wanna Bet Dogs, 1:5. And the Conner’s Lost Cup Dogs, $3 billion.

The attraction? Said Warsaw’s John Z, “Aside from the improved menu, it’s our nice, pleasant, even, easy-to-get-along-with personalities. Like this jerk over here.”

Keeping in the tradition of the South, The Cantina serves special, secret, spicy Cajun Dogs ($1.75). Of its five-item menu, Bill Schultz said, the Pro Choice Dog was the overwhelming favorite. But Supreme Court justices leaned toward the Pro Life Dog.

In searching for the owner of North side’s Weenie Hut, every “worker” behind the counter simultaneously pointed to somebody different. These guys relish their obscurity.

Said Zack, who didn’t mention a last name, “The other guys do 10 times the volume we do. But we have 10 times as much fun. If we were located where they are, there would thousands of people in front of us, and we couldn’t see the action.”

At what other sporting event do you find as many people watching the action as there are watching the games?