Robata: Diners Can Sit in the Lap of Luxury--for a Price

With a job like mine, not having to order can be the greatest luxury imaginable. And one of the things I liked about Robata, an attractive new restaurant at 250 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, (213) 274-5533, is that you simply specify that you want a 10-course meal or a 12-course meal (the courses are tiny) and then sit back and wait to see what will arrive.

And I liked the progression of foods, which went from spicy slivers of dried fish to marinated oysters, shark’s fin soup, raw tuna with grated lime, sushi, grilled chopped chicken, fried soft-shell crab, raw beef salad. The high point of the meal was the airy little dumplings made of lobster and whitefish wrapped in tofu skin. Then came slippery seaweed with foie gras, rice balls with pickles and, finally, fresh fruit on ice.

What didn’t I like about Robata? Well, the prices, for one thing. Although you can order a la carte, the waiters don’t seem to think this is a good idea, and the 10-course meal is $50 per person, the 12-course meal $70. I’m not quite sure I’m in need of that much luxury.