Lady Jane Has a Sweet Way With Desserts

Just sitting here thinking about the warm lemon meringue tart I tasted the other day at Sweet Lady Jane is making my mouth water. It was about 4 inches in diameter, piled high with meringue and had a crust that was unbelievably buttery.

Then there was the strawberry/blueberry shortcake-- real shortcake, not overly sweet. The berries were folded into whipped cream and spread between the layers of cake and over the top.

And how about the coconut layer cake that was so moist and tender it fell apart just getting it onto the fork? Or the chocolate-pecan tart . . . or the chocolate-nut tart . . . or the chocolate/vanilla cheesecake?

In case you haven’t guessed, Sweet Lady Jane specializes in desserts. Fine desserts, it says on the sign. We agree.

They bake practically around the clock, so something new is constantly appearing in the display cases. Florentines filled with chocolate mousse, Napoleons, apple pies, assorted cookies and brownies--the list goes on.

A Tiny Shop on Melrose

All this from a tiny shop located on a stretch of Melrose a couple blocks east of La Cienega that’s just beginning to blossom. Decor of Sweet Lady Jane is more French than English, but the room is certainly reminiscent of a British tea room. “We just wanted a European feel,” explained co-owner Jane Lockhart.

Cafe chairs and a bench that runs along the one wall are upholstered in tapestry. The seven granite topped tables have French pedestals and soft beige walls are adorned with beveled mirrors and two lanterns that Jane’s partner, Ronald Shore, laughingly describes as “a la Bob Cratchit.”

Two of us were trying to figure out the wooden structure over the display cases and service area when another friend arrived. “It’s an arbor,” he said. “This is interpretive decor--there just aren’t any grapevines.”

In addition to desserts, lunch is served from noon to 2:30 p.m. There’s no printed menu, but choices typically include several sandwiches, a salad and soup. These change daily depending on what’s in season.

On a recent visit four types of sandwiches--tuna, chicken curry, ham or turkey--were offered on a choice of breads that are baked on the premises. The wheat bread, studded with nuts, was outstanding, but my vote goes to the rosemary--light, fragrant and flavored with just enough of the resinous herb.

Thick Slices of Bread

Bread for making the sandwiches was sliced about a half-inch thick. As good as it was and despite ample tuna filling, one friend found that much bread a little overwhelming.

The chopped salad offering was very acceptable, but nothing to get excited about. Greens were fresh and tossed with a light dressing, bits of salami, garbanzo beans, chopped tomato and cheese. It would have been easier to eat, however, if the serving plate had been slightly larger.

They use assorted depression glass to serve the food and coffee cups that resemble Portmarion Botanica. There is also a collection of teapots for brewing the Bencheley teas that are offered. The ice tea, steeped with fresh oranges and lemons, has a very appealing fruity flavor.

Espresso and cappuccino make good companions to the desserts, and are particularly good with the shop’s breakfast pastries. Here again, everything is baked in house.

Croissants have a glaze that makes the outside crusty and received mixed reviews. Lemon-nut muffins, also brushed with a tangy lemon glaze, were our favorite, but the oat bran with nuts and raisins were also moist and flavorful.

You may not like everything you taste at Sweet Lady Jane, but it’s well worth a visit.

Sweet Lady Jane, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 653-7145. Open Monday through Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Lunch served from noon to 2:30 p.m. Street and lot parking (behind shop). Major credit cards accepted. Sandwiches and salads, $4.50 to $5; desserts, $3.75 to $4.25.