Who’s on Third?

Everyone’s been waiting for the shopping on this “new Melrose” to develop for years; in the meantime, L.A.’s acquired a new restaurant row. El Mocambo, 8338 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 651-2113. Style: Pre-Castro Cuban, perfect for a festive occasion. Setting: Tropical fantasy with fake palm trees, rumba-costumed waiters, and a lot of babalooing. Recommended dishes: Corn chowder; shrimp tamale; marinated chicken breast. Cost per person: $18-$40.

Indigo, 8222 1/2 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 653-0140. Style: Upscale Mediterranean with a light touch. Setting: Easy-going chic. Recommended dishes: Chicken and spinach fried won tons; rosemary chicken pasta with sun-dried tomatoes; seafood pizza. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Katsu Third, 8636 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 273-3605. Style: Eclectic eating beyond belief. Setting: Restaurant as art gallery. Recommended dishes: Terrine of scallops, halibut and eel; lobster tempura; sashimi salad. Cost per person: $18-$30.

Locanda Veneta, 8638 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 274-1893. Style: Neighborhood Italian that makes you wish you lived around the corner. Setting: Light and cozy and crowded. Recommended dishes: Fried whitebait with onion confit ; tortelloni ; lobster ravioli in saffron sauce. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Ma Be, 8722 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 276-6223. Style: Thoroughly modern for the goat cheese/radicchio school. Setting: Architectural Digest perfect. Recommended dishes: Vegetable ravioli; goat cheese flan; crispy sweetbreads. Cost per person: $20-$40.