Homemade Bagels the Easy Way : Old Pro’s Cooking Secrets Offer a Fresh Taste of Bakery in Kitchen

Yom Kippur, the Jewish Day of Atonement, begins at sundown on Sunday and lasts until sundown the following day, during which time a strict fast is observed.

Before the fast, it is customary to serve a family dinner consisting of simple foods prepared with a minimum of salt and spices so those who fast will not be unduly thirsty or endure the pangs of stimulated taste buds.

After the fast, dairy foods are traditionally served with coffee cake, honey cake and a variety of other baked delicacies. Bagels, arguably the favorite item in the Jewish-American cuisine, are a part of the after-fast menu, often accompanied by lox (smoked salmon). The salty fish makes up for the bland pre-holiday food and serves as a reward for observing the fast.

Origins of the Bread Doughnut

There are many opinions as to where the bagel originated. Some say Germany, Austria, Poland, or Russia. Some scholars insist that the word bagel is derived from the German bugel, which means a ring or curved bracelet. No matter where they came from, we know that the bagel is here to stay.

Despite their popularity, very few of us have attempted to bake bagels in our home kitchens. Bagels are made in a unique manner--first boiled, then baked, which gives them their distinctive shiny, chewy crust. Students in my cooking classes tell me that the bagels they make at home are hard, tough, heavy and undersized.

But now I have learned the secrets of bagel-making from a real bagel maven--an expert--Iz Cohen. At 73, Cohen is supposed to be retired, but he still works three days a week decorating cakes for weddings and bar mitzvahs at Fred’s Bakery on Robertson. And, of course, he continues to turn out delicious bagels.

Cohen comes from a long line of bakers, including his uncle and cousin who operate a bakery in New York. And Cohen operated his own bakery in Los Angeles from 1948 to 1971.

Armed With a Scale

Cohen agreed to teach me the secrets of making perfect bagels and arrived at my kitchen armed with a scale, special gluten flour and his favorite brand of malt. He first delivered a little talk about ingredients, telling me that most flour does not contain the 12% to 13% gluten content required for perfect bagels. If needed, you may add gluten, which is available at health food stores. Malt adds color and flavor and may also be purchased at health foods stores.

Cohen explained that bagels are available in flavors such as whole wheat, oat bran, almond, blueberry, cinnamon-raisin, cheese--and even pizza. He laughed when he told me that some bakers even make chocolate-chip bagels.

We decided to stick to water bagels and to top half of them with a sprinkling of chopped onion and some poppy seeds. In a few hours we had fresh-from-the-oven, light, golden-brown bagels.

For a Yom Kippur break-the-fast meal, serve a hot appetizer of cream cheese and smoked salmon on bagels.

IZ’S WATER BAGELS

2 cups cold tap water

2 tablespoons sugar

3/4 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon malt

1 tablespoon oil

8 cups high gluten flour (12 to 13%) (or 4 all-purpose flour plus 4 tablespoons powdered gluten)

5 teaspoons dry yeast

1 tablespoon yellow cornmeal

In bowl of electric mixer, using dough hook, blend water, sugar, salt, malt and oil. Combine 6 cups flour and yeast and add to bowl, blending until dough comes together. Add remaining flour, beating until smooth. (If any dry flour mixture remains in bottom of bowl, add several drops of water to moisten and continue beating 5 minutes.)

Transfer to wooden board but do not add any oil, water or additional flour. Cover with towel and let rest 5 minutes.

Divide dough into 15 pieces, each weighing about 3 ounces. Keep covered with towel while shaping each piece. Knead by folding each piece in half and pushing out any air-pockets. Then, fold in half and knead again. Shape into rope about 5-inches long, then form into doughnut shape. Overlap ends by about 1 inch and knead into smooth perfect circle. Repeat with remaining dough.

Sprinkle cornmeal on wooden board and place bagels on top. Cover with towel and let rest 5 minutes.

Fill large pot with water and bring to boil. Drop 4 to 6 bagels (do not crowd) into boiling water and boil 10 seconds only. Bagels should rise to top of water. Using slotted spoon, transfer to wire rack and drain. Then place on parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake at 425 degrees 10 minutes or until golden brown. Makes about 15 bagels.

Variations:

Onion-Poppy Seed Bagels--After boiling and draining bagels, press top of each bagel into mixture of chopped onion mixed with poppy seeds. Bake as directed.

Egg Bagels--Using recipe for water bagels, place 2 or 3 egg yolks in 2-cup measure and add enough water to measure 2 cups. Use as liquid in recipe.

TOASTED GARLIC

BAGELS

1/4 pound unsalted butter or margarine

3 to 4 garlic cloves

3 tablespoons minced parsley

Salt

8 bagels, sliced in half

Combine butter and garlic in food processor and process until well blended. Pulse in parsley. Season to taste with salt. Using rubber spatula, transfer mixture to bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. (Or, shape mixture into cube, wrap in plastic wrap and foil and freeze. Defrost until spreadable before using.)

Spread butter mixture on bagel halves, place on baking sheet and broil in preheated broiler until butter mixture bubbles and begins to brown. Serve immediately. Makes 16.

HOT BAGEL

APPETIZERS

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese

1/4 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

1/2 cup chopped lox

3 tablespoons capers

Dash black pepper

6 bagels, sliced and toasted

Combine cream cheese, sour cream, green onions and lox. Fold in capers and season to taste with pepper. Spread evenly on toasted bagels. Broil 3 inches from heat until lightly browned. Serve immediately. Makes 12 servings.

SCANDINAVIAN

BAGELS AND LOX WITH DILL SAUCE

12 small thin slices of lox

6 bagels, sliced in half

Mustard-Dill Sauce

Fresh dill sprigs

Lettuce leaves

12 cherry tomatoes

Place slice of lox on each bagel half and top with Dill Sauce. Place on individual serving plates and garnish with dill sprig, lettuce and cherry tomatoes. Makes 12 servings.

Mustard-Dill Sauce

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon dry mustard

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon vinegar

1/3 cup safflower or vegetable oil

3 tablespoons minced fresh dill

Combine Dijon mustard, dry mustard, sugar and vinegar in small deep bowl. Blend well.

Using wire whisk, slowly beat in oil until mixture resembles thick mayonnaise. Stir in minced dill. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

QUICK PIZZA BAGELS

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Dash salt

6 bagels, sliced in half

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Combine tomato paste, water, oregano and salt. Spread tomato mixture evenly on each bagel half and sprinkle with cheese. Place on foil-lined baking sheet and bake at 375 degrees until cheese bubbles and begins to brown, about 15 minutes. Makes 12 servings.