Where Success Is in the Details : Tony Bill’s Maple Drive offers straightforward fare in a serene Beverly Hills setting : THE WINE LIST

With some wine lists, one glance tells you, “Hey, there’s a wine lover around here somewhere.” The list at Maple Drive is such a list.

To say it is eclectic is an understatement. It is clearly the work of Rafael Nazario, who put together the list at the affiliated 72 Market St. in Venice. His selections (about 85 wines) are not at all typical of an ordinary wine list that’s been assembled from one or two wholesalers. This list is culled from here, there and places I never thought to look.

Where, for instance, is there a list that has 1987 Eyrie Pinot Meunier, or 1980 (!) Ridge Ruby Cabernet, or 1988 Mas de Daumas Gassac?

There are a number of superb lower-priced wines that work well with lunch and light dinners, a smattering of deeply constituted reds to marry with the richest dinners, and a lot in between. Though some wines may appear to be a bit pricey, with one or two exceptions most everything on this list is priced fairly.

Among the white wine values are 1988 Hogue Cellars Riesling ($16), one of the best wines from this German grape variety I have ever tasted; 1988 Muscat Ottonel from Eyrie in Oregon ($16) (“great with oysters,” is the comment underneath the listing); and 1988 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare ($16), the sort-of blushy wine from Santa Cruz.

Among the best red wine values are the aforementioned Pinot Meunier at $29, a delightful wine with fresh, delicate fruit; 1988 Bonny Doon Clos du Gilroy ($16), a kind of Beaujolais-ish red; and 1986 Preston Syrah-Sirah ($16).

But the best wine for the money is probably 1982 Cousino Macul Antiguas Riservas from Chile, a lovely, well-developed and deeply flavorful Cabernet Sauvignon. It sells for $16. And you can try a glass for $4.

There’s lots more to look at including the 1985 Cabernets from such hard-to-get producers as Dunn and Forman ($49 each); 1982 Grgich Hills Chardonnay ($59 for this older vintage); some exciting Italian reds, an Australian Semillon, and so on.

If there is a drawback to this list (though I don’t consider it a drawback at all) it’s that some diners may feel irritated that they have “only” seven Chardonnays from which to choose. They were, however, made in different styles.

Although the organization of the list may look a bit helter-skelter, there’s an explanation: “Our list is arranged along a Richter Scale--the bigger the number, the bigger the wine.”

Also, there is the comment, “As there are many wines you may be unfamiliar with, our wait-staff will be glad to assist you.” Which may be necessary for stuff like Minervois or Clos de la Coulee Serrante or Bandol or a $60 Italian Barbera.

Other nice touches: there are a number of half-bottles from which to choose. We had a half-bottle of the attractive 1987 Chablis Vaillons from Dauvissat ($18), though the menu said we’d get the Valmur designation--picky-picky.

And there are 12 sparkling wines, nine wines by the glass (listed by name and vintage on the menu), and even four bottles of dessert wine.

Glassware is attractive, fine-lipped tulips. Service is good.

Corkage charge here is $15 a bottle, awfully excessive as far as I’m concerned. On the other hand, with a list this creative, who would want to bring in a familiar wine?