Restaurateur’s ‘Fire & Spice’ Fills Cookbook Gap

The flood of cookbooks published annually in the United States has left few cuisines uncovered. One exception is that of Sri Lanka, a gap that has been filled with the publication this year of “Fire & Spice” (McGraw-Hill, $19.95) by Heather Jansz Balasuriya and Karin Winegar.

Balasuriya is owner-chef of the Sri Lanka Curry House in Minneapolis, which opened 12 years ago and was at that time the only Sri Lankan restaurant in the United States. Other restaurants have since opened in California

Born in Colombo, Balasuriya has lived in the United States for 15 years and knows well how to reproduce her cuisine with ingredients that are available here. Most of the book is dedicated to a rich parade of Sri Lankan curries, breads, chutneys and desserts. But Balasuriya has also included a chapter of American dishes such as hamburger, pizza, Sloppy Joes and spaghetti spiced up with Sri Lankan seasonings. A glossary explains unfamiliar ingredients, and a source list names Los Angeles area Indian markets that can supply some of them.

The following recipe is Balasuriya’s version of distinctive, dark roasted Sri Lankan curry powder. Balasuriya condones using ground spices and dried curry leaves instead of fresh if it is more convenient. And she advises that grinding whole spices with a mortar and pestle will give better flavor than a food processor.

HEATHER’S ROASTED CURRY POWDER

1 tablespoon mustard seeds

1/4 cup ground cumin

3 tablespoons ground coriander

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

20 to 25 curry leaves

10 cardamom pods, crushed

6 whole cloves

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

6 (1-inch) lengths dried pandan leaves

3 (1-inch) pieces cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon crushed dried red chiles

Heat large skillet over low to medium heat. Add mustard seeds, cover and roast until mustard seeds start to pop. Stir in cumin and coriander. When ground spices begin to turn light brown, add fennel seeds, curry leaves, cardamom pods, cloves, pepper, pandan leaves, cinnamon sticks and chiles.

Stirring continuously to prevent burning, roast spices until dark golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes or longer, depending upon heat of stove. Immediately grind spices very fine, using mortar and pestle, food processor or spice grinder. Store in airtight jar. Makes about 3/4 cup.