Olea europaea Olive treeSmall evergreen...

Olea europaea Olive tree

Small evergreen tree with silvery leaves and gray-brown fruit

The origins of some foods are mysterious and puzzling; for instance, what brave ancestor, obviously hungry, first discovered there was something delicious inside an artichoke’s scaly hide? And how did anyone ever figure out what to do with an olive? Olives off the tree taste terrible--so terrible that no amount of good manners will keep one from spitting it out. But once these sour little nuggets are soaked in brine (salt and vinegar, mostly), they take on an intriguing allure; not exactly delicious, not exactly nourishing, but, well, interesting.

If I had to pick a favorite tree, though, the olive would definitely be a finalist; it surpasses its fruit in value, beauty and usefulness. The delicate little leaves shimmer day and night; the trunks (usually more than one per tree) are gnarled and twisted gray ropes that suggest ancient Mediterranean origins. The whole shape of the tree, with branches curving upward almost like flower petals--gorgeous. And it’s a manageable size for urban yards, never reaching more than 30 feet in height and width (most remain much smaller).

If anyone needs more from a tree, the olive also delivers drought resistance and adaptability to lousy soil. It is so drought resistant, in fact, that overwatering in the summer can rot the roots. Olives should not be planted in lawns where they will have to endure frequent watering; I’ve seen some very sad-looking olives, and they were almost always overwatered. If you have an olive in a lawn, readjust sprinklers, or cap off those nearest the tree, to avoid watering within two feet of the drip line. Then cover the roots with rocks or bark so the grass under the tree will die quietly, out of sight and mind.

In some cases, it is possible to transplant the tree to more suitable locations; olives, like California sycamores, can be transplanted when they are quite large, making them desirable for homesteaders who demand instant landscaping. But such transplanting requires professional help and equipment.

I know there are people out there who plant olive trees near path or driveway and then moan about the messy fruit that drops to the pavement and gets tracked in on rugs. I know that people even spray olive flowers with fruit-control hormones to prevent fruit set, a practice I find expensive and somewhat offensive.

It’s better to just plant the tree where it won’t bother traffic and can set its fruit naturally and without interference. Or buy a “fruitless” olive (which doesn’t guarantee the absence of fruit).

Olives are now available in dwarf fruitless (“Little Ollie”), standard fruitless (“Majestic Beauty” and “Swan Hill”), dwarf fruited (“Skylark Dwarf”) and standard fruited (“Manzanillo,” “Mission” and “Sevillano,” all commercial varieties). If you’re uncertain about buying a commercial variety, drive up to Corning in Northern California; right along Interstate 5 there are acres of olive groves, one of the prettiest sights along an otherwise dreary highway.