It isn’t too late to invite friends to share a holiday meal . . . if you settle for a simple menu.

At last! Everything is in place. The house is decorated to your satisfaction with the family’s favorite glitter and Christmas ornaments; it smells of pine boughs and spicy holiday-scented potpourri and looks wonderfully warm and welcoming. But, now that it’s all ready to be admired, there’s no one around to enjoy it but you and yours.

Bummer!

So have a party. Not a big party, mind you. It’s a little late to be planning a major do-it-yourself production before the holidays. But there’s plenty of time to share some Christmas cheer and good, simple food with close friends, if you choose a menu based on easily prepared foods.

With old-fashioned home cooking enjoying a resurgence in popularity, simple meals are in fashion these days. Meat loaves, potatoes, stews and other solid, dependable foods are definitely trendy. And most of these wonderful, old-style foods are now as much at home on a party table as glitzy hummingbirds’ tongues used to be.

There are many advantages to this trend toward simpler, less complicated meals. Most recipes for foods of this sort call for ordinary, readily available ingredients. What makes them special depends on you. How daring are you when it comes to varying the seasonings, and how creative are you in presenting them?

Consider meat loaf, for instance. It doesn’t have to start with hamburger, and it doesn’t have to be baked in a loaf pan. Instead, make it with ground lamb and season it with water chestnuts, oregano and a hint of green chile. Then gussy up your presentation by forming the mixture into a crescent shape and baking it with a batch of potato rounds seasoned with garlic. In just about an hour you’ll have an upscale meat and potatoes meal that should delight family and friends alike.

Another meat and potatoes meal that uses familiar ingredients Grandma would easily recognize is a ham and sweet potato combination that sports some 1989 seasonings and techniques. The ham is used in a sweet-and-sour stir-fry sauce that is spooned over baked sweet potatoes. It’s an easy, no-fuss main dish that visually whets the appetite when you invite your guests to the table.

Another simple party dish that’s sure to please company is our Sole and Macadamia Roll-Ups. Ground macadamia nuts and green onions are used as a filling for the rolled-up sole fillets and additional nuts are sprinkled on top. The result is a wonderful quick and easy main dish that is suitable for many an occasion.

With all the foregoing suggestions and most of the others given today, a salad, some hot bread and an ice cream sundae or possibly a store-bought dessert will round things out nicely, providing a delicious, hassle-free dinner party that even the host can enjoy.

LAMB LOAF

2 pounds ground lamb

1 (8-ounce) can sliced water chestnuts, drained and chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/2 teaspoon crushed oregano

1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

2 eggs

1 (4-ounce) can whole green chiles, drained

Salt, pepper

2 to 3 unpeeled potatoes, cut into wedges

Garlic salt

Yogurt mixed with minced mint leaves, optional

Combine ground lamb, water chestnuts, garlic, onion, oregano, bread crumbs and eggs in bowl. Dice 2 chiles and cut remaining into strips for garnish. Add diced chiles to lamb mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Mix lightly but thoroughly. Shape free form (round, half-moon or oval loaf) and place on large baking tray. Add potato wedges sprinkled with garlic salt, if desired. Bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes or to desired doneness.

Garnish top with strips of chiles. If desired, make gravy with drippings or serve with yogurt mixed with minced mint leaves. Makes about 8 to 10 servings.

HAM STIR-FRY OVER SWEET POTATOES

6 small to medium sweet potatoes

2 tablespoons oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup chopped onions

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

1 cup chopped green pepper

1 tablespoon honey

1 (8-ounce) can pineapple chunks in unsweetened pineapple juice, drained

1 cup chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon Chinese five spices

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

2 cups julienned cooked ham slices

1/2 cup toasted whole almonds

Salt, pepper

Wash sweet potatoes. Pierce with fork and bake at 350 degrees about 1 hour or until tender. Heat oil in skillet. Saute garlic, onion, ginger and green pepper in oil until tender. Add honey, pineapple chunks, chicken broth and Chinese five spices. Simmer 5 minutes. Blend together cornstarch and water until smooth. Stir into broth.

Heat to boiling, stirring until thickened. Stir in ham and almonds. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat through.

Place hot baked sweet potatoes on platter or individual plates. Cut through skin and coarsely mash pulp. Spoon ham stir-fry over. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

TERIYAKI STEAK TOSS

1 pound top sirloin steak, sliced in thin strips

Teriyaki Marinade

2 tablespoons oil

1 onion, halved and cut in wedges

2 stalks celery, cut in chunks

1/4 pound Chinese pea pods, trimmed and cut in halves if large

1 tomato, halved and cut in wedges

Marinate steak strips in Teriyaki Marinade at least 30 minutes.

Heat oil in wok or skillet and cook meat over medium high heat few minutes. Remove meat and set aside.

Add onion to skillet and stir-fry 5 minutes. Add celery and pea pods and cook 2 minutes. Add tomato and beef. Cook 3 minutes longer. Serve with hot steamed rice, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Teriyaki Marinade

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/4 cup dry Sherry

1/2 cup low sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger root, crushed

1 clove garlic, crushed

Salt, pepper

Dissolve cornstarch in Sherry then add soy sauce, sugar, ginger and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

SOLE AND MACADAM-IA ROLL-UPS

4 sole fillets

Salt, pepper

3/4 cup ground macadamia nuts

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 clove minced garlic

Season fillets to taste with salt and pepper. Divide 1/2 cup nuts over fillets, spreading evenly. Sprinkle over minced green onions. Roll up and arrange in bottom of 9-inch square baking dish.

Heat together butter and garlic until butter is melted. Brush roll-ups with butter. Sprinkle remaining nuts on top of roll-ups. Bake at 400 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with fork. Serve with lemon wedges and steamed vegetables, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

MOSTACCIOLI CHICKEN BAKE

1/2 pound mostaccioli or penne pasta

2 boneless chicken breasts, cooked and cubed

2 boneless chicken thighs, cooked and cubed

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 large onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups sliced mushrooms

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup half and half

1 cup shredded Jack cheese

Salt, pepper

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup fine dry bread crumbs

Cook pasta according to package directions, drain and keep warm.

Melt butter in 3-quart heat-proof casserole or pan. Saute onion, garlic and mushrooms until tender. Stir in flour until blended. Stir in chicken broth until smooth. Stir in half and half. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Stir in Jack cheese, heat until just melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper

Add pasta and chicken. Combine Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Sprinkle over top of dish. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 45 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Makes about 6 servings.

CLAUDIE CES’ BRAISED TENDERLOIN

1 tenderloin roast, about 2 1/2 pounds

2 tablespoons oil

1 medium onion, finely sliced

Salt, pepper

1/3 cup rose wine

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 to 1 cup water

4 ounces canned button or sliced mushrooms or 8 ounces fresh, sliced and sauteed

Lace up roast with string if needed to maintain shape. Heat oil in heavy Dutch oven over medium high heat. Brown roast all over. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook 20 minutes, uncovered. (Cover slightly if pan is too wide.) Turn meat over and add sliced onion. Continue cooking 25 to 30 minutes longer, or until meat is cooked to desired doneness. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove meat.

Leave onion pieces in drippings and increase heat to high. Add wine, butter and enough water to deglaze, scraping off bits from bottom of pan. Add mushrooms and cook 5 minutes. Taste to adjust seasonings. Remove string from roast, if used and place meat on platter. Serve with mushroom sauce. Makes about 6 servings.

LINGUINE AND EGG-PLANT AUX PROVENCE

Olive oil

1 large eggplant, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 (28-ounce) can Italian-style tomatoes

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 cup diced celery

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt, pepper

2/3 cup pimiento-stuffed olives, sliced

2 tablespoons drained capers, optional

1 pound linguine

3/4 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

Heat about 1/8-inch olive oil in large skillet. Stir in eggplant cubes and saute lightly. With slotted spoon, remove eggplant from skillet and set aside.

Measure oil remaining in skillet and add more if needed to measure 2 tablespoons, or discard any extra oil. Saute onion and garlic in oil until tender. Add undrained tomatoes, tomato sauce, celery, parsley, basil, sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer mixture 15 minutes.

Add eggplant, olives and capers. Cover and simmer 25 minutes. Taste to adjust seasonings, if needed.

Cook linguine in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well and place in center of large deep platter. Spoon eggplant sauce over linguine and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve at once. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

ORANGE CHICKEN ON RICE

3 pounds meaty chicken pieces

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 (1-inch) piece ginger root, peeled and minced

1 1/2 cups orange juice

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup chopped macadamia nuts or pecans

2 oranges, peeled and separated into segments

4 cups hot cooked rice

Sprinkle chicken with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat butter in large skillet and brown chicken pieces. Remove chicken from pan and set aside.

Combine flour, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, sugar, curry powder and cinnamon. Stir into pan drippings to make smooth paste. Add ginger and orange juice. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce bubbles and begins to thicken.

Return chicken to skillet and add raisins. Cover and cook over low heat 40 minutes or until chicken is tender and cooked through. Sprinkle with nuts and orange segments and heat through. Spoon cooked rice onto large platter and top with chicken pieces and some of sauce. Serve remaining sauce on side. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane

China from Villeroy and Boch