A note arrived this week from from...

A note arrived this week from from Hans Thiery, whose castle hotel, Schloss Durnstein, overlooks the Danube outside Vienna. Rekindled memories of the medieval splendors of that remarkable village. Friends who returned recently tell us the hotel with its vaulted ceilings and art treasures has lost none of its appeal. A fire still crackles pleasantly in the lounge of an evening while classical melodies set a mood for romance. Rain or shine, it makes little difference at Schloss Durnstein. On a rainy day it is pleasant to curl up by the fire and fill one’s soul with the musical treasures of Hadyn, Beethoven, Strauss and other composers. And if it is sunny--well, few settings are more romantic in all of Austria than the terrace at Schloss Durnstein, with tables that face the Danube and vineyards that sweep down from the hillside. Guests stroll the narrow, cobbled streets of Durnstein and sip wine in little cafes and mugs of hot chocolate and give thanks for a refuge that remains unspoiled. The village with its castle hotel is a slice of history, a glimpse of medieval Europe . . . and the thought of returning is tempting.

Hotel Schloss Durnstein, A3601 Durnstein, Austria. Rates from 685 schillings per person with breakfast, 991 schillings with breakfast/dinner. For other details, contact the Austrian National Tourist Office, 11601 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 2480, Los Angeles 90025-1760, (213) 477-3332.

Maps/Travel Books: Brian Draper is a dream merchant, a modern day Phileas Fogg who knows the world from Acapulco to Zanzibar. An ex-geography major at Cal State Northridge, for Draper travel is a drug, his raison d’etre. In Toluca Lake he operates a map/bookstore and stocks travel gadgets ranging from currency converters to travel irons and money belts. Every conceivable sort of map. Topographical maps. Three-dimensional relief maps. Nautical and aeronautical charts. His book section features publications by authors ranging from Fodor to Theroux. Dozens of hard-to-find selections crowd his shelves. This worldly wise young man is prepared to advise his customers on their journeys to all corners of the world.

Brian Draper’s Geographia, 4000 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake 91505. Call (818) 848-1414.

Meanwhile, other books/maps are stocked by Pacific Travellers Supply, 529 State St., Santa Barbara 93101, along with travel accessories. Telephone (805) 963-4438.

Bargain Trail: Cosmos, the British-based tour operator, is scheduling a series of surprisingly inexpensive motor-coach tours in Europe. During March, a 15-day journey in Italy is a giveaway at $688. (Summer prices run $848.) Another 15-day tour (Spain, Portugal, Morocco) is pegged at $764 (low season) and $890 (high season). Cosmos is promoting a seven-day London package ($308) and a 28-day grand tour of Europe for $1,288.

For a brochure listing these and other trips, write to Cosmos, 150 S. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, or call toll-free (800) 556-5454.

Ski Scene: Skiers heading for Taos, N.M., can call a toll-free number for information on flights, lodging, car rentals. Some tempting packages. A seven-night plan (air fare, accommodations, meals, lift tickets, ski lessons, a rental car) figures out to $1,318. Or there’s a three-day, three-night package for $391. Other arrangements are being worked out for skiers wishing to divide their time between Taos Ski Valley and Santa Fe Ski Basin.

Call toll-free (800) 992-7669.

Nonsmoker Cruise: Cruises for nonsmokers will be offered again this spring/summer aboard the little eight-passenger mini-liner Cebu. Sails through the fiords of British Columbia. Attire is casual. Meals served family-style. No smoking, no alcoholic beverages. Four itineraries (eight/11 days). You fly one way by float plane from Seattle or return to Seattle from British Columbia by air. Evenings the ship anchors near small villages and in secluded coves. Opportunities for hiking, boating, photographing wildlife (bald eagles, ospreys, seals, porpoises, killer whales, bears, otters).

Cebu Cruises, 1017 168th Ave. S.E., Bellevue, Wash. 98008-6043. Prices: $1,005 eight days, $1,320 for 11 days.

Chicago Dining: Chicago’s Fine Dining Assn. is mailing a free guide listing a couple of dozen restaurants, including Biggs (an 1874 mansion with seven dining rooms), the Golden Ox (Old World atmosphere, German cuisine), Morton’s of Chicago (voted the best steak house in North America by a national magazine). Others on the list include The 95th (views of Chicago from a 95th-story perch overlooking Lake Michigan) and the Pump Room (serves a lavish Sunday brunch).

Send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Chicago’s Fine Dining Assn., 405 N. Wabash Ave., Suite 3512, Chicago, Ill. 60611.

For Anglophiles: Britain is drawing big crowds during the off-season. An opportunity to become acquainted with the locals, joining them for a pint in their favorite pubs. Tips/holiday suggestions are found in an excellent monthly newsletter written by a team of British scribes. A recent issue suggested a two-day journey through the Scottish Highlands, trips into Hampshire, the Yorkshire Dales, the Uplands section of Swansea, details on London’s oldest shops, recommended places to stay.

British Travel Letter, 11846 Balboa Blvd., Suite 285, Granada Hills 91344. Telephone (818) 368-7567.

For general information on Britain, write to the British Tourist Authority, 350 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, Suite 450, Los Angeles 90071, or telephone (213) 628-3525.

Hikers/Bikers: A catalogue dedicated to hikers/bikers describes 250 escorted tours in 40 countries. Costa Rica to Pakistan. Contains notes on itineraries, a listing of suggested trips, travel tips. Journeys vary from high-altitude trekking to leisurely biking along country roads.

For a copy of Biking & Hiking Travel 1990, write to All-Adventure Travel, P.O. Box 4307, Boulder, Colo. 80306, or call toll-free (800) 537-4025.

Reader Recommendations

California--Dotti and Bill Philleo, Torrance: “On our return to Los Angeles via the wine country, we chanced upon Tre Scalini in Healdsburg, where Cynthia and Fernando Urroz do absolutely magical things with northern Italian dishes. Simple but elegant setting. Entrees: $10/$20.”

Hawaii--Jack R. Rudder, San Pedro: “In my retirement I have found ocean-view condominiums on Maui that are reasonably priced. One-bedroom, $60 per night. There are also two-bedroom units and penthouses. The mainland phone number for reservations is (213) 516-1253 (day) or (213) 329-5938 (evenings).”

Switzerland--Arnold Green, Los Angeles: Praises Zermatt as “the ultimate skiing resort in Switzerland” and recommends a couple of five-star hotels, the Zermatterhof and Hotel Mont Cervin. “Daily rates start at $100 U.S. per person. Four-star hotels Mirabeau, Nicoletta, Schweizerhof and Monte Rosa at $75 per person. All rates include breakfast and dinner. There’s an excellent ski school.”

New Zealand--Louanne Bergh, South Pasadena: “A wonderful B&B; with old-fashioned kiwi hospitality on the coast north of the city of Dunedin. Write to Wendy and Jim Preston, Centrewood, Palmerston, Otago, New Zealand. About $50 U.S. per couple a night, $66 per couple with dinner.”

Australia--William J. O’Brien, La Habra: “Lou’s Family Cafe, 7 Belgrade St., Kempsey, New South Wales. Went back three times in one week. Kempsey is the halfway point between Sydney and Brisbane on the Pacific Coast highway.”

England--Bernard and Alice Freedman, Encino: Praise for Woodhayes Country House Hotel, Whimple, near Exeter, Devon EX5 2TD, England. Rates from 55 single, 75 double. “Highly recommend this untouched piece of England.”