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The following are summaries of recent Times...

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The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Hyang Chon, 12921 Fern St., Stanton. (714) 891-5166. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Eel, grilled short ribs and barbecued herring are just a few items on this Korean restaurant’s exotic and varied menu. Pan cha, colorful side dishes, are especially good here, with such specialties as gae jang, raw marinated crab, and jap chae, glass noodle with meat and vegetable. Lunchtime prices are a steal.

Revere House, 900 W. 1st St., Tustin. (714) 543-9314. Open Mondays through Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Revere House is one of those dark, woody dinner houses that were popular during the fifties and guess what: That’s when the place opened. It specializes in credible versions of plain old American food-prime rib, pan fried chicken, turkey with all the trimmings-all churned out with dependable regularity. The menu is enormous and portions are Protean. All entrees come with a choice of Caesar or spinach salad. Desserts are the one weak spot, except for the tapioca pudding you get for free.

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The Hobbit, 2932 E. Chapman Ave., Orange. (714) 997-1972. Open for dinner Tuesdays through Sundays at 7:30 p.m.

The Hobbit is a special occasion restaurant, serving prie fixe dinners that are elaborate without being pretentious. Book well in advance. You begin the evening in the restaurant’s wine cellar, nibbling on Julia Child-like appetizers, sipping champagne and chatting with total strangers. Chef Mike Phillippi takes it all very seriously, preparing solid food that is well-balanced, though rarely brilliant. Entrees like beef Wellington and lobster Thermidor rotate weekly.

Ghandi, 3820-D Plaza Drive, South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana. (714) 556-7273. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 to 10.

Gandhi could be called new wave Indian: it roasts quail in its clay oven and pours Beaujolais nouveau as often as beer. Phlegmatic waiters in fancy tuxedos perform service on the brass enclosed patio, a former pizzeria that looks more like Paris than Delhi. Appetizers like chicken tikka salad and the various tandoori dishes are refined and pleasant. Spicy dishes like lamb in spinach puree and curried eggplant are even better. Expensive.

Grappa, 2304 W. Ocean Front, Newport Beach. (714) 675-1930. Open Tuesdays through Thursdays from 6 to 10 p.m., Fridays through Sundays till 11.

Grappa, housed in what used to be Zeppa, is yet another beachfront Italian restaurant in Newport. New owner Vincenzo Gentile hasn’t changed the basic concept: The restaurant still resembles a Florentine villa, with a kitchen that churns out such favorites as great fried calamari, salads with lots of balsamic vinegar, and upscale pastas such as agnolotti and penne. Nodino alla griglia, an excellent veal chop grilled with aromatic herbs, is a standout. Desserts are intelligently underindulgent.

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Faraday’s Grill and Spirits, 13102 Newport Ave., Tustin (714) 730-3442. Open Sundays through Thursdays from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays till 11 p.m.

Faraday’s is a family restaurant with cheerful service, juicy burgers and some mighty devoted fans. Why else would anyone wait half an hour for institutional food on a Tuesday evening? Everybody goes ape over onion strings, mountains of flour dredged onions deep fried until crispy, and the sappy sweet barbecue that kids favor so shamelessly. Breakfast is actually quite credible here, with fluffy pancakes, homemade muffins, and squeezed-to-order OJ. Prices are modest.

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