The Rush to Rice : <i> Is rice going to be the pasta of the ‘90s? Find out for yourself.</i>
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India’s Grill, 428 S. San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 659-3903. Style: Neighborhood Indian specializing in sumptuous sauces. Setting: Soft Indian music; paintings from the Punjab. Recommended dish: Vegetable rice, $3.50.
Khun Khao, 13550 Roscoe Blvd., Panorama City. (818) 786-6969. Style: Thai family-run curry kitchen. Setting: Standard issue. Recommended dish: Banana and sweet sticky rice steamed in banana leaf, $1.
Ole’s Louisiana Oyster Loaf, 1111 W. Pacific Coast Hwy., Harbor City. (213) 539-7591. Style: A bit of New Orleans in a minimall. Setting: Institutional afterthought. Recommended dishes: Red beans and rice, $4.25; dirty rice, $1.95.
PCH Grill, 14809 Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica. (213) 454-3939. Style: Former Les Anges reincarnated into an Italian grill. Setting: Light and bright, with display kitchen. Recommended dish: Asparagus risotto, $11.50.
Shin Mi, 3189 1/2 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 383-9632. Style: Where Koreans eat Korean. Setting: Shopping Plaza hideaway. Recommended dish: Rice with spicy beef soup, $8.75.
