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Winter Is the Season for Peak Quality and Best Prices for Artichokes : Produce: The quality is excellent and prices for the exotic thistle are reasonable.

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TIMES STAFF WRITER

Recent heavy rainfalls in Northern California were just what the doctor ordered for production of artichokes and other important vegetables (such as broccoli and cauliflower). Quality is excellent and prices are reasonable.

Arabs discovered that certain thistle were good to eat and introduced the plant to other regions along the trade routes. By the 15th Century artichokes were being cultivated in Italy and gradually began to appear in other areas of Europe.

Spanish explorers and French settlers in Louisiana brought the thistle to America. Today the entire supply of artichokes comes from 10,000 acres of California’s mid-coastal counties, with Castroville the artichoke capital of the world.

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Nutritionally speaking, artichokes are low in calories, about 58 per large bud. They contribute to the RDAs in several vitamins and minerals, including potassium, vitamin A and B, iron and calcium.

Artichokes harvested in winter months may have bronze-tipped outer leaves caused by light frost. Winter artichokes mature slowly, thus enhancing the delicate flavor of the vegetable.

If cooking with artichokes is new for you, here are some tips from the Artichoke Advisory Board on handling this delicacy from the thistle family.

Choose artichokes with firm, solid heads and compact leaves. The size of the artichoke has nothing to do with age or quality. Any size may be boiled or steamed. The smaller artichokes are better for pickling, stews and casseroles. The medium size artichokes are ideal used in a salad. Save the largest one for stuffing as a main entree to a meal.

To prepare artichokes for cooking, first wash them. Then cut off the stems at the base and remove the small bottom leaves. You may want to trim the tips of the leaves to avoid prickles when handling.

Stand the artichokes upright in a deep saucepan large enough to hold them snugly. Most cooks add two- to three-inches of boiling water and a bit of salt to the pan. You can add about one tablespoon lemon juice to prevent darkening plus a few drops of oil to make the leaves glisten. Cover and simmer 30 to 45 minutes for large artichokes.

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If the base can be easily pierced with a fork, they’re done. Add more water if necessary to keep the pan filled part way. Turn the artichokes upside down when you drain them and gently spread the leaves to remove the choke (thistle portion) from the center of the artichoke with a metal spoon.

To prepare baby or small artichokes, snap off the outer petals near the base and cut off the artichoke about one-third from the top or just below the green tips of the petals. Trim green areas from the base and cut off the stem. Rub cut surfaces with a lemon half and let stand in water to cover plus add three tablespoons of lemon juice. Halve or quarter artichokes. If center petals are purple or pink, remove prickly tipped petals and fuzzy center.

To steam the artichokes, place upside down in a steamer and steam according to manufacturer’s directions until tender, about 45 to 60 minutes. You won’t have to drain them.

Artichokes can also be microwaved with excellent results. Just place four artichokes upside down in a glass casserole with one-half cup water, four lemon slices and one tablespoon of salad oil. Cook, covered on HIGH (100% power) 16 minutes, rotating twice while cooking. Remove, turn right side up in liquid, recover and let stand five minutes before using.

To cook baby artichokes, place them in salted boiling water with one or two tablespoons lemon juice, using a stainless steel or enameled saucepan to retard discoloration. Simmer 12 to 15 minutes or until tender. Cool under running water and drain thoroughly.

If you’ve never eaten an artichoke leaf by leaf, you’ve missed something. Simply pull off the outer leaves, one at a time, as you dip them in a sauce or dip. Draw the end through your front teeth, scraping off the edible part of each leaf. Discard the rest of the leaf. Then continue clipping and eating until you reach the purple tipped cone of the light-colored leaves. Once at the choke, remove it with a spoon, and ease out the artichoke heart. You can use a spoon or slice it on a plate to eat as is or add to a salad.

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The stem also is edible if you peel away the course outer skin and trim to about an inch from the heart.

Artichokes have a surprising number of uses. Those who prize the taste and have cultivated a taste for them, look forward to the seasonal supplies for treats in soups, salads, stews, or just as is with dips and sauces.

Here are some ideas for using artichokes, suggested by the California Artichoke Advisory Board.

-- Cut a cooked artichoke in half and include it with other vegetables and a favorite vegetable dip.

-- When cooking a pork roast or roast of any kind, place small trimmed artichokes in the pan along with the potatoes.

-- Leftover artichoke hearts are great when chopped up and put in a salad

-- Cut cooked artichokes in half and remove the choke. Fill with salad or filling of your choice. It’s great as a salad or main course.

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-- Cut smoked beef into narrow strips. Wrap two beef strips around each halved artichoke heart. Serve as an appetizer.

-- Keep a few cooked artichokes on hand for quick lunches or late evening snacks.

ARTICHOKE LASAGNA

3 medium artichokes, cleaned

3/4 to 1 pound ground turkey or turkey sausage

1 cup chopped onions

1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can ready-cut peeled tomatoes

1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1 teaspoon dried basil, crushed

Salt, pepper

12 lasagna noodles, cooked and drained

1 cup ricotta cheese or small curd cottage cheese

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Slice artichokes 1/2 inch thick lengthwise.

Saute ground turkey, onions and garlic in olive oil in large skillet. Stir in artichokes and cook until tender-crisp. Stir in tomatoes, rosemary, basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes.

Layer 4 noodles in bottom of oven-proof 9-inch square baking dish. Spread 1/2 cup ricotta over noodles. Layer 1/2 of artichoke mixture over cheese and sprinkle with 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese. Repeat layering. Top with remaining noodles. Sprinkle mozzarella evenly over top.

Bake at 375 degrees 30 minutes or until thoroughly heated. To microwave, prepare as directed, arranging in microwave-safe baking dish. Microwave on MEDIUM HIGH (70% power) 10 to 15 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Individual portions may be packaged and frozen for later use.

ARTICHOKES WITH SALMON PASTA SALAD

4 medium artichokes, cooked

8 ounces orzo-style pasta (rice-shaped noodles)

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/2 cup reduced calorie mayonnaise

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

4 ounces smoked salmon, flaked

Salt, pepper

4 fresh dill sprigs

Cut artichokes in half lengthwise. Remove center petals and fuzzy centers of artichokes.

Cook orzo according to package directions.

Combine yogurt, mayonnaise, chopped dill and mustard. Add to cooked and drained orzo and mix well. Gently stir in smoked salmon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Fill centers of prepared artichokes with pasta mixture. Garnish each with sprig of dill. Makes 4 servings.

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ARTICHOKE SUNFLOWER

1 large artichoke, cleaned, trimmed and cooked

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

2 tablespoons milk or cream

1/4 pound small cooked shrimp

Paprika

Remove leaves from artichoke. Set aside leaves that are firm enough to handle and have good edible portions on end. Cut heart into quarters.

Blend cream cheese with garlic powder, onion powder, hot pepper sauce and enough milk to make smooth paste. Taste to adjust seasonings.

Spread filling on top of each reserved leaf. Place small shrimp on top of filling and dust with paprika.

Arrange leaves in concentric circles around tray to resemble open sunflower. Place cut artichoke heart in center of leaves. Makes 4 appetizer servings.

ITALIAN ARTICHOKE SAUTE

6 medium artichokes

Lemon juice

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Bend back outer petals of artichokes until they snap off easily near base. Edible portion of petal should remain on artichoke hearts. Continue to snap off and discard thick petals until central core of pale green petals is reached.

Cut off top 2 inches of artichokes and discard. Cut off stems. Trim outer dark green layer from artichoke bottoms and stems.

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Rub all surfaces with lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Quarter artichokes lengthwise. Remove center petals and fuzzy centers. Rub again with lemon juice.

Saute artichokes, garlic and oregano in olive oil over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook 7 to 10 minutes or until tender-crisp. Makes 6 servings.

CREAM OF ARTICHOKE SOUP

2 artichokes

1 (10 1/2-ounce) can condensed chicken broth

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 cup water

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup half and half

Trim stalks from base of artichokes and remove tough outer leaves. Wash and drain. Cut artichokes lengthwise into quarters. Remove inner purple leaves and choke.

Combine artichokes, chicken broth, lemon juice, water, onion, thyme and pepper in 3 1/2-quart saucepan. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, 30 minutes or until artichokes are tender.

Remove artichokes, reserving liquid. Remove leaves, cut up hearts and with back of knife scoop flesh from leaves.

Combine strained cooking liquid, artichoke flesh and heart and half and half in blender container. Blend at high speed 2 minutes. Refrigerate overnight. Serve chilled, or reheat to serve warm. Makes 4 servings.

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Note: Diced smoked ham or prosciutto may be added before reheating.

ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH CRAB

2 artichokes, cooked

6 ounces canned shredded crab meat

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

Bottled French dressing

Turn cooked artichokes upside down and drain well. Remove choke with spoon. Open petals out to form cup.

Combine crab meat, celery and just enough French dressing to moisten. Fill each artichoke with crab mixture. Makes 2 servings.

ARTICHOKES WITH PAELLA

3 pounds chicken, cut into serving pieces

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons salt

2 cloves garlic, halved

1 1/2 cups rice

1 large onion, chopped

1/2 teaspoon saffron stamens

2 1/4 cups chicken stock or bouillon

1 (16-ounce) can whole tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon crushed dried tarragon

1/4 teaspoon crushed dried oregano

6 clams or mussels

6 medium artichokes, cooked

1/2 pound raw shrimp, shelled and cleaned

1 (10-ounce) package frozen green peas, cooked and drained

Brown chicken pieces in hot oil in Dutch oven. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and garlic. Cover and cook over low heat 30 minutes or until chicken is tender. Remove chicken and set aside. Discard garlic.

Over low heat, cook rice and onion in drippings, stirring frequently. Stir saffron with small amount of boiling water and add to rice along with chicken stock, tomatoes, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, tarragon and oregano. Mix well and bring to boil.

Add clams, cover and cook over low heat 15 minutes. Add quartered artichokes, shrimp, peas and chicken to rice mixture. Cover and cook 20 to 30 minutes longer or until rice and vegetables are tender. Makes 6 servings.

CALIFORNIA ARTICHOKES WITH WARM BRIE SAUCE

1 leek, white portion only

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup milk

2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1/8 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed

4 to 5 ounces Brie cheese, rind removed and cubed

2 artichokes, cooked

Mince leek to equal 1/3 cup. Saute in oil until tender. Stir in wine and heat 1 minute. Combine milk, cornstarch, rosemary and thyme. Stir into wine mixture and cook 2 minutes or until thickened. Stir in Brie, 1 cube at time, over low heat until smooth.

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Halve artichokes. Remove choke. Arrange artichokes on serving platter. Spoon Brie sauce into centers. Serve warm. Makes 4 servings.

Note: To remove rind from Brie cheese, place in freezer until firm. Peel with sharp knife.

MARINATED ARTICHOKES

2 cups white vinegar

3 quarts water

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon salt

24 baby artichokes, trimmed and kept whole

1 cup wine vinegar

1 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

3 tablespoons minced parsley

Combine vinegar, water, garlic and salt in saucepan and bring to boil. Add artichokes. Continue to stir and cook 1 minute. Cover and simmer 12 to 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and cool.

Cut artichokes into halves or quarters, depending on size. Snip off purple leaves.

Mix wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic powder and parsley. Add artichokes to marinade. Toss to coat well. Cover and refrigerate. Will keep several weeks in refrigerator, if stirred occasionally. Makes 24 marinated artichokes.

HUMMUS-FILLED ARTICHOKES

1 2/3 cups drained, cooked or canned garbanzo beans

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

Dash hot pepper sauce

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Salt, pepper

2 medium artichokes, cooked, drained and chilled

Parsley sprigs

Whole-wheat pita bread

Reserve few garbanzo beans for garnish. Combine remaining garbanzo beans in food processor or blender with water, sesame seeds, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, hot pepper sauce and lemon zest. Blend until smooth and of thick dipping consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove small inner petals and fuzzy centers from artichokes. Fill with garbanzo mixture. Garnish with reserved garbanzo beans and parsley. Serve with whole wheat pita bread. Makes 2 servings.

Note: If desired, garlic may be sauted in olive oil before combining with beans.

RELATED STORY: H30: “Back to Basics” column provides more-detailed directions for preparing whole artichokes for cooking.

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