Beach Eating : <i> When the sea breeze stimulates your appetite.</i>

Chez Melange, 1716 Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach. (213) 540-1222. Style: Spago of the South Bay. Setting: Elegant motel. Recommended dishes: Menu changes daily but might include spicy fried oysters, shrimp and chicken bombay, seafood gumbo. Cost per person: $20-$35.

St. Estephe, 2640 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach. (213) 545-1334. Style: Minimal portions of memorable Southwestern meals. Setting: Adobe dining. Recommended dishes: Tomatillo and tomato soup, blue corn tortillas with caviar, grilled fish. Cost per person: $35-$50.

Collage, 762 Pacific Ave., Long Beach. (213) 437-3324. Style: One-time gas station now pumping a little of this and a little of that. Setting: Bits and pieces of artwork. Recommended dishes: Southwestern chicken sandwich, Tunisian lamb sausage, any flavor of the “homemade” ice cream. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Rebecca’s, 2025 Pacific Ave., Venice. (213) 306-6266. Style: Marder’s Mexican madness. Setting: Designer Everglades. Recommended dishes: Lobster enchilada, leg of lamb adobo , carne asada. Cost per person: $20-$35.

Symphonie, 23863 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance. (213) 373-8187. Style: The menu’s harmony of French-Japanese cuisine hits the right note. Setting: Cubist cool with Miro sketches on the walls. Recommended dishes: Saddle of venison with meat glaze and black currants; lamb filet with truffles and Madeira sauce; apple tart. Cost per person: $25-$45.