Pretentious Cafe Japengo Casts Menu From Dishes of the Pacific Rim

When faced with some of the dishes at the new Cafe Japengo, the thoughtful eater must ask himself at what point creative cooking devolves into something that is different merely for the sake of being different.

As one of the four eateries in the handsome, free-standing restaurant complex in the Golden Triangle’s Aventine, Japengo has a lot going for it; this restaurant row is one of the best things to hit the dining scene in a long, long time. But Japengo, which is operated by the neighboring Hyatt Regency hotel, puts a higher premium on striking effects, in the decor and on the plates, than the adjoining restaurants, and seems bent more on pretension than on producing savory dishes.

In a press release, chef James Cleffi says the food “is just a small part of what Cafe Japengo is all about,” adding that he wants the place to be “an experience, a sharing of souls.” That is a lot to ask of a restaurant and its patrons, especially as many beleaguered diners want only to be fed, to be soothed by that food, and to be sent home happy and relaxed. Wading through a roasted fish garnished with something called kim chee salsa seems akin to manning a shovel at an archeological dig. It is not a soothing experience.

The geographic inspiration for the cooking is the Pacific Rim, which Japengo identifies primarily as Japan, China, California, Thailand, Korea and the Philippines. Never mind that, on this side of the ocean, the Pacific Rim runs through Mexico, Central and South America, all the way to the tip of Tierra del Fuego.

The menu’s opener is a concoction of Chinese, California, nouvelle and Southwestern influences, a quesadilla of tea-smoked duck with avocado. In concept, it is cute and coy, but not much of a challenge. The starter list continues with spring rolls “from Asia and Eastern countries,” a grandly named offering that translates as a crisp, flavorful shrimp- and pork-stuffed lumpia from the Philippines, with a spicy ginger dip; and a Vietnamese-style, vegetable-stuffed roll, with a salty soy dip that made the roll remarkably bland.

The list turns specifically Chinese nouvelle with the “woked (as in stir-fried) wild mushrooms, mu shu pancakes and plum black bean sauce,” or do-it-yourself mushroom crepes of no special flavor. As a minor complaint, there were a good number of domestic mushrooms in the mix. A notable degree of pretension was reached with the tempura of sweet potatoes and Louisiana soft-shell crayfish, an unusual combination. The two ingredients tasted of unflavored and undercooked batter; if the fried batter had encased nothing but air, the taste would not have been much weaker.

A winner among the first courses was the warm duck and spinach salad, advertised as dressed with “Cabernet vinaigrette,” although the only noticeable flavor in the dressing was the likable tang of fresh tarragon. But the salad was pretty, with its arrangement of deep-green spinach, blush-colored radicchio, a burnished duck leg, and chunks of duck strewn throughout. The mix of flavors was thoughtful and pleasing but not overly challenging.

The roasted whole red snapper (a substitute for the sea bass usually served) went through a lot before arriving at the table. It was seared in a wok, dipped in a light batter, briefly fried, roasted in a wood-burning oven, slapped on a huge oval plate, buried in a field of sprouts and shredded greens, then served--with lacquered chopsticks stuck in its upper gill. For all that, the fish was on the dry side. And, as handsome as the beast was with its head, tail and fins intact, it simply was not easy to eat, especially with chopsticks (although Western utensils also were on the table). The kim chee salsa garnish put smoked red and yellow Roma tomatoes in a sort of Korean-style pickle with Mexican overtones, and threw in what seemed to be bits of radicchio for that extra-trendy touch.

Asian cuisines have much in common, and when Japengo doesn’t try to glorify them with Southwestern nouvelle accents, they intermingle happily. The entree of braised duck, sliced and arranged on a bed of slivered crisp vegetables, was handsome and delicious. The dish cleverly echoed Peking duck by including mu shu pancakes, in which the other ingredients could be rolled and savored. Another handsome offering included a base of excellent, Western-style shoestring potatoes, which seemed almost like noodles when topped with a flavorful, slightly spicy mix of tender pork and braised Japanese eggplant. The play of soft and crisp textures often is alluring, as it was in this tasty preparation.

Entrees from the wok include a 10-ingredient fried rice and a stir-fry of beef, black mushrooms and green beans served on a cake of scallions and noodles. Besides the roasted fish, the wood oven also produces an herbed chicken with smoked shiitake mushrooms and a rack of lamb coated with sesame seeds and served with a minted fig compote.

Choices from the grill include swordfish with fried ginger, parchment-encased salmon served over mixed greens, a veal chop with roasted garlic and a cake of potatoes mixed with the daikon, a Japanese radish.

Desserts follow in the same mood. The ginger-chocolate ice cream was wildly delicious, but the mango “bread” on the side was dull. The pretty pastry purses called “firecrackers” were filled with undercooked apple, and the sesame shortcake with mixed berries is best described as “OK.”

The decor takes a modern, austere Japanese tone, and is elegant in its way, if not especially comfortable. Copper panels give the place a hard-edged look that is reinforced by the bare wooden tables, which are decorated by glass-block “fish bowls” whose tight quarters contain a single Siamese fighting fish. The bar and sushi bar in the entry seem the happiest spots, especially the sushi bar, which offers patrons a view of the open kitchen.

CAFE JAPENGO 8960 University Center Lane, 450-3355. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, including a glass of wine each, tax and tip, $50 to $100.