A Guide to the Best of Southern California : TREKS : Weighing in at 4 Tons, From Santa Barbara Island . . .

GRACIE ALLEN’S line, “No wonder they call them elephants; they’re so big,” also works when referring to a 4-ton, 16-foot-long bull elephant seal. On the brink of extinction a century ago, these bulky animals are once again flourishing--on the beaches of a dozen islands, five of them off Southern California. Island Packers has boat service to two of these islands, Santa Barbara and San Miguel, both in Channel Islands National Park starting in May.

From close offshore Santa Barbara Island, four hours out from Ventura Harbor (cruise cost is $45 for adults, $30 for children), you can watch the elephant seals snoozing on a small cove beach. Trails on the island’s plateau take visitors past a gull rookery to cliff-top views looking out to tiny Sutil Island and down at cliffs, arches and elephant seal and sea lion rookeries.

Mid-size San Miguel is 5 1/2 hours out and is more varied in terrain and wildlife. A two-day trip there ($195 for adults, $175 for children)--you sleep on board--includes a visit to nearby Santa Rosa Island and a cruise past west-end beaches (weather permitting), where the elephant seals stand out like men among boys. Six pinniped species are seen on these islands, the most in any spot on the planet.

Island Packers runs day boats to Santa Barbara Island May 26 and 28 and two to three times a week starting in August, and weekend trips to San Miguel throughout the summer. Boats depart from 1867 Spinnaker Drive, Ventura; (805) 642-1393.