Metro Lines : In Fall Ready-to-Wear L. A. Designers Offer the Smooth, the Soft the Sleek and the Simple
In Los Angeles, there are always a few fashion designers who go about their business quietly. They seldom stage fashion shows, they sell to a small selection of stores, and their strong independent spirit is always apparent.
Despite their unorthodox approach to business, their names are among the best known of Southern California ready-to-wear designers.
Right now, the names include several long-time Los Angeles talents--Harriet Selwyn, Rick Beach and Patti Cappalli, Holly Harp and Nancy Heller--along with some newer names--James Tarantino, Peter Cohen, Bryan Emerson and Tere Tereba, Richard Tyler and Jennifer Joanou. For all the diversity in their styles, they all draw from the basic building blocks: stretch fabrics, sleek, soft shapes and interchangeable pieces that make even a small wardrobe versatile.
Since she began designing her “Fragments” collection of modular components in the early ‘70s, Selwyn’s design concept hasn’t changed. Most of her designs are still one size and all of the pieces work interchangeably.
Her evening wear best shows off her unique way of blending beauty and comfort. For fall she is styling wrap tops of Chantilly lace, and matching full skirts, in earth tones mixed with gold. Her outer wear includes a silk velvet jacket with a cascade of jet fringe beading, to wear with Fortuny pleated satin and iridescent chiffon fabric evening outfits. Her collection is sold locally at Raffles.
The design team of Rick Beach and Patti Cappalli gives jackets center stage for fall. “I think it’s great to have basic pants, skirts and dresses to wear with all kinds of different jackets that can take you anywhere you need to go,” Cappalli says of the collection, which will be at Modasport and Bullock’s. Matte jersey or lace T-shirts in solid and glittery colors are shown under the jackets in mohair tweeds with gold buttons or gray flannel with jet-beaded fringe. Blanket pattern coats are Beach-Cappalli’s show-stopping finish.
James Tarantino works his signature wool crepe fabric into sheathes with necklines made of gold chain jewelry by Deanna Hamro. In black, charcoal gray or bright shades of red and chrome yellow, Tarantino’s silhouettes are the modern update of dresses that Audrey Hepburn wore as Holly Golightly in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” in 1961. The clothes are carried at Ron Ross in Tarzana and at Nordstrom.
Peter Cohen takes a Zen-like approach to fashion, starting with the small, gold star he puts in his clothes instead of a label. His designs are pared to gently tailored silhouettes. Luxury fabric T-shirts with necklines that graze the collarbone, blouses with collars and single buttons, slim pants and short skirts are the foundation of his simple statement.
Cohen’s novelty shapes and details are clever: a vest creates a V-neck by looping the fabric, a charmeuse skirt takes on texture and body with crushed pleating, and layers of Indian-inspired silk and chiffon combine East and West. His collections are carried at Ecru.
Nancy Heller’s philosophy has been based on ease. Some of her best work this season is in cashmere, suede and knit, and oversize, buffalo plaids. A group of crisp white shirts are her alternative to basic T-shirts.
Jennifer Joanou’s name first attracted attention when she opened her nouvelle couture shop on La Brea Avenue about a year ago. Now, she also wholesales her clean-lined styles nationwide. Her wool knit separates range from long-sleeved tops to long and short skirts and narrow pants. Other narrow silhouettes include vests, jackets and chiffon blouses creating layers of texture.
Richard Tyler also began his L.A. career with the opening of his retail store for men’s and women’s wear, Tyler-Trafficante, on Beverly Boulevard. He is known for strong shapes, unexpected choice of colors and custom-quality workmanship. For fall, he is adding his first, limited collection of women’s evening wear. A quilted satin suit with motorcycle-style jacket is one example of his blend of British tailoring with cutting-edge style.
Bryan Emerson and Tere Tereba are partners, and each is a designer in her own right. Their collections are sold at Shauna Stein in Los Angeles. Emerson describes her collection as modern and romantic. For fall, she shows fluid velvets that loosely glide over the body. But there’s always a twist. Emerson’s signature is loops and buttons that bring hemlines up to hip-line with asymmetrical draping. Her velvets can be dressy or casual.
Tere Tereba has a more tailored style. She uses antique trims and closings on silhouettes that are classically oriented. A linen suit with crewel embroidery is one of her first fall ’90 offerings. Other styles are trimmed with tobacco-colored Battenberg lace.
