Institute Moves to Get the Lead Out of Bottle Capsules

The Wine Institute, trade organization of about 550 California wineries, adopted a resolution Monday aimed at ending the centuries-old practice of using lead foil to cover the top of the neck of wine bottles.

The resolution to “recommend alternatives to lead foil capsules before January 1992” was made in response to legislation already passed in four states outlawing the use of lead in packaging materials.

Dr. Richard Peterson of Atlas Peak Vineyards, who presented the resolution, said Connecticut, Maine, Iowa and New Hampshire have already adopted laws banning lead in packaging materials, and he said similar legislation is under consideration in New York, Rhode Island and Vermont.

Almost all fine wine bottles use lead or tin capsules. Wine makers at the Wine Institute’s annual meeting, where the resolution passed with only minimal opposition, said scientists were working on a paper byproduct that could be used in place of lead.

Fifty-one does not equal 50, even though it may sound like it.

Beaulieu Vineyard has announced it will celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first vintage of its Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the 1936 wine.

On strict arithmetical principles, however, the 1986 edition of the wine--to be unveiled in a few months--would actually be the 51st such release. The winery is aware of this contretemps and is choosing to celebrate the anniversary of the vintage rather than the birthday of the wine.

A limited number of bottles of the 1986 BV-PR, which has not been tasted outside the winery, will be released with a replica of the original label.

Interestingly, though, the 1986 may actually be only the 48th or 49th wine in the series. Ron Batori, a spokesman for Heublein Fine Wine Group, said winery records indicate that no Private Reserve was made in 1937 and 1938, and that it is also possible that no 1953 Private Reserve was made, either.

Another 50th is being commemorated with a special package--Robert Mondavi’s 50th harvest.

The 1987 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet has been released with a special label and bottle. The bottom of the bottle has embossed into the glass the phrase “Robert Mondavi’s 50th Harvest.”

Prices for California’s premium wines could drop in the coming year because of declining consumption and an oversupply of wine, according to a study released by a major accounting firm.

Deloitte & Touche released the report at a conference on the wine industry staged by Hambrecht & Quist, a San Francisco-based investment banking house.

Gary Brayton, a partner with the accounting firm, said that after strong growth in the early 1980s, the wine industry appears sluggish at present.

Premium wine sales rose only 7% in 1989 after 16% growth the prior year, said Brayton, and jug wine sales continued the decline that began in the early 1980s. Brayton said all wine consumption has dropped more than 3% in the last five years.

The drop is seen as a byproduct of an anti-alcohol health movement as well as a decline in the number of wholesale houses from many hundreds in 1980 to just a few dozen last year. There also are far fewer retail outlets for wine, said Wade Stevenson, an economic specialist for Wine Institute, the California wine trade organization.

Moreover, an oversupply of fine wine has created a small lake of wine in California, and Brayton said, “Prices will have to come down to move the volumes out.”

A number of analysts who spoke at the conference pointed out that the decline in American consumption of all alcoholic beverages won’t reverse itself soon because of the threat of increased taxes on all such beverages.

Old-line wineries usually make changes slowly, but major and rapid changes, showing a fast turnaround, have been made at a number of them recently.

In the last few years, the biggest changes have been at the Louis Martini Winery in the Napa Valley under third-generation wine maker Mike Martini. Changes in the white wines are especially noteworthy.

The new 1989 Chardonnay ($10) has a fresh, mildly citrusy tone to it and a creamy, delicately oaky finish. It is miles better than the Martini Chardonnays of the early 1980s, which had a faint musty/tanky aroma.

Mike Martini found that the problem lay in some old, upright vats the winery used for holding the wine just before bottling. He discovered it one day walking through the winery when he noticed a residue on a vat.

“I scraped some of it off with my pocket knife and swirled it into some clean wine, and there was that stinky smell,” said Martini. Within days, the tanks were demolished and replaced. Also discarded were old hoses, which were suspected of imparting a negative aroma to wine pumped through them.

The result is far fresher white wine than ever before, and that is evidenced by the new 1989 Sauvignon Blanc, a bargain at $8 (often discounted below $7). The fresh, new-mown hay and lemon grass character of the aroma is quite floral and the finish is rich and complete. This is exceptional wine making.

Changes in the red wine program, including a change in wine designations at Martini, will be explored another time.

Wine of the Week

1989 Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling ($7.50)--Stunningly wonderful wine that is a byproduct of good grapes and an idea floated around a room during an international Riesling symposium last summer. The Washington Wine Institute staged the conference to explore ways of promoting Riesling sales. One suggestion, made by a number of speakers, was to make Riesling wine dry, or nearly so, and offer it as an accompaniment to dinner. Ste. Michelle wine maker Pete Bock accepted the challenge; the result is this beautiful wine with a faint juniper spice component and a lovely honeysuckle lilt in the background. Just off-dry at .5% residual sugar, the wine is perfect for pairing with lighter seafoods. I dare you to try one glass and not ask for a second. Hooray for wine makers who listen to what people want.