This Kind of Hollywood Wildlife Is Worth Climbing a Canyon to See : HIKING: Sights to See in the Hollywood Hills

No Man’s Canyon was the earliest name given to the deep arroyo that nature sculpted in the Hollywood Hills.

A century and a half ago, it was the wild domain of birds and rabbits, coyotes and lizards. Amazingly, it still is.

Today the area is called Runyan Canyon, and it’s a city park in the heart of the Hollywood Hills. The wildlife found in this nature preserve is a stark contrast to the wild life associated with nearby Hollywood and Sunset boulevards.

The remarkable story of how the canyon was preserved--a tale of Greek, Irish and Iranian immigrants, movie stars and millionaires--could be the subject of a TV miniseries.

“Greek George” Caralambo was the first to receive title to the canyon in 1867. The canyon was part of a land grant awarded Greek George for his service as leader of the Army Camel Corps.

Coal magnate Carmen Runyon bought the canyon in 1919 and built a hunting lodge. But it has been mostly Runyan Canyon ever since, usually spelled with an “a”, not an “o.”

(A movement is afoot by the Friends of Runyon Canyon, a volunteer group and formerly the Friends of Runy a n Canyon, to permanently rename the canyon Runy o n.)

Actor/singer John McCormick, just after his appearance in the hit movie “Song of My Heart,” purchased Runyan Canyon in 1929.

He built a mansion called San Patrizio, after St. Patrick, and began extensive landscaping projects in the canyon. Wallace Beery, John Barrymore and Basil Rathbone were frequent guests.

In 1942, McCormick sold his property to millionaire Huntington Hartford, who renamed the estate The Pines. Hartford had ambitious plans.

He commissioned Frank Lloyd Wright and Wright’s son Lloyd to draw up plans for a futuristic resort hotel perched on the canyon walls overlooking the city. Plans included four saucer-shaped buildings, a giant round pool, art gallery theater and sculpture garden.

While Hartford definitely left his mark on the cultural life of Southern California, he was unable to build the Huntington Hartford Play Resort, despite 15 years of effort.

Local hotel owners eyed the project with jealousy and Hartford was never able to secure the necessary city permits.

In 1964, Kahlua importer Jules Berman purchased Runyan Canyon, razed San Patrizio mansion and the guest house to avoid paying taxes on improved property, and tried to develop a subdivision of luxury houses.

Local homeowner groups fought Berman’s development plans, as well as those of a later canyon owner--Iranian exile Mana Vasir, who purchased the canyon in 1979.

Finally, in 1984, the city of Los Angeles, with funding provided by the Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy, purchased Runyan Canyon and it was proclaimed a city park.

Today, the Friends of Runyon Canyon, a volunteer group, works to keep the canyon clean, as well as interpret the area’s rich architectural and natural history.

The Friends hope to generate support and funds for a visitors center and ranger station. For the hiker, Runyan Canyon Park offers a great after-work leg-stretcher.

Anyone interested in Hollywood’s faded glory will enjoy exploring the ruins of the old McCormick estate. Clear-day vistas from the canyon overlooks encompass Hollywood, downtown and many a civic landmark.

Directions to trailhead: From the Hollywood Freeway in Hollywood, exit on Highland Avenue and head south past the Hollywood Bowl to Franklin Avenue. Turn west on Franklin to Fuller.

Turn right and proceed a short distance on Fuller to road’s end at The Pines entrance gate to Runyan Park.

Park along Fuller or nearby side streets. Vista Avenue, a little north and parallel to Fuller,is another entrance to Runyan Park.

The hike: From the wrought-iron gate enscribed “The Pines,” enter Runyon Canyan Park. You’ll soon encounter the ruins of the great estate San Patrizio.

Angle left at the first opportunity and join the asphalt road ascending north along the west canyon wall. (This walk is a clockwise tour of Runyan Canyon.) Runyan Canyon Road (closed to vehicles) climbs through a chaparral community of chamise, ceanothus, buckwheat and sage. Castor bean, tree tobacco, sugar bush, toyon and golden yarrow are also part of this community.

Nearing the head of Runyan Canyon, the road intersects a dirt road that leads down the east wall of the canyon.

(Paved Runyan Canyon Road continues north to a park entrance--or exit as the case may be--at Mulholland Drive.)

Near the intersection is a viewpoint offering great clear-day vistas of the Griffith Park Observatory, the Hollywood sign and the front range of the San Gabriel Mountains.

Bear right on the narrow dirt road and descend along the steeply pitched east wall of the canyon.

The trail gets quite steep (use caution) as it descends to Inspiration Point and the ruins of the Lloyd Wright-designed pool house, occupied by Errol Flynn in 1957-58.

From here you get good views of the rooftop pools of Hollywood hotels, the pagoda of Mann’s Chinese Theater, Century City and Wilshire high-rises, and much more. Your path turns up-canyon for a short distance, passes a tennis court overgrown with vines, and reaches the canyon bottom.

Leave the road at a huge cactus and wander the canyon bottom trail under pines, palms and eucalyptus, to the stone and cement ruins of several structures.

Returning to the dirt road, near, head down-canyon past more ruins to the trailhead.

Every third weekend, Saturdays at 9 a.m. and Sundays at 1 p.m., the Friends of Runyon Canyon lead interpretive walks through the canyon.

Saturday’s hike is the full loop, while Sunday’s is a slower-paced walk to the pool house and other historic sites. Both walks leave from the Fuller Street gate.

Hiking / Hollywood Hills Runyan Canyon Trail Where: Runyan Canyon Park, Hollywood Hills. Length: 3-mile loop, 500-feet elevation gain. Terrain: Brushy foothills. Highlights: City views, historic ruins. Degree of Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Precautions: High fire danger. Hot canyon. Best hiking in early morning, late afternoon. For more information: Call Friends of Runyon Canyon at (213) 876-9170. (213) 851-6135 or (213) 666-5004.