Trail Runs Downhill From Mountains to Beach

Skyline to the Sea Trail, as its name suggests, drops from the crest of the Santa Cruz Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.

For the most part, it runs downhill on its scenic 35-mile journey from Castle Rock State Park to Big Basin Redwoods State Park to Waddell Beach.

Views from the Skyline--redwood-forested slopes, fern-smothered canyons and the great blue Pacific--are superb.

This gem of a trail has many friends. During one weekend in 1969, dedicated members of the Sempervirens Fund and the Santa Cruz Trails Assn. turned out more than 2,000 volunteers to dig, clear, prune and otherwise improve the trail. Area volunteers put together an annual Trails Day that is now a model for trails organizations throughout the state.

A fine backpack for a three-day weekend would be to trek the 35 miles of Skyline from Castle Rock State Park to Big Basin, then onward to the sea.

Castle Rock, perched on the western ridge of the Santa Cruz Mountains, is in turn connected by trails to parks and open-space preserves in the Santa Clara Valley. With judicious use of a map, a longer backpacking trip could be planned.

The wildest and most beautiful part of the Skyline stretches from park headquarters at Big Basin to Waddell Creek Beach and Marsh. It winds through deep woods and explores the moist environments of Waddell and Berry creeks.

Springtime, when the creeks are frothy torrents and Berry Creek Falls cascades at full vigor, is a particularly dramatic time to walk the Skyline to the Sea Trail; during summer, the cool world of the redwood canyons is a great place to escape the heat.

Big Basin--California’s first state park, set aside in 1902--survived last October’s Santa Cruz earthquake in pretty good shape. Park roads were cracked, electric lines went down and pipes ruptured. The park was closed immediately after the quake, but was soon reopened.

Rangers believe that few, if any, of the tall redwoods toppled because of the quake, though many trees lost heavy branches.

Directions to trailhead: From Santa Cruz, drive 12 miles north on Highway 9. Turn west on Highway 236 and proceed nine miles to Big Basin Redwoods State Park.

If you’re hiking from Big Basin to the sea, you’ll need to arrange a car shuttle. Waddell Beach, at trail’s end, is 18 miles upcoast from Santa Cruz on Highway 1.

Better yet, take the bus, which stops at both the state park and Waddell Beach. One suggestion: Leave your car at the Santa Cruz bus station (920 Pacific Ave.) and take the 7:45 a.m. (weekends) bus bound for the state park. You’ll arrive about 9 a.m.

Hit the trail and take the 5:15 p.m. bus from Waddell Beach back to Santa Cruz. Schedules are different on weekends and weekdays and change frequently. Call the Santa Cruz Metropolitan Transit District at (408) 425-8600 for the latest bus schedule. The $2 daily ride pass is a good deal.

The hike: The trail begins in the nucleus of the park on Opal Creek flatlands at the bottom of the basin. From park headquarters, join Redwood Trail, which crosses a bridge and travels a few hundred yards to a signed junction with Skyline to the Sea Trail. You’ll turn toward the sea and begin a stiff climb out of the basin, passing junctions with other park trails.

After climbing, the trail descends through deep and dark woods, first with Kelly Creek, then along the west fork of Waddell Creek. Ferns and mushrooms, salamanders and banana slugs occupy the wet world of the trail.

Some four miles from the trailhead, just short of the confluence of Waddell Creek and Berry Creek, you’ll intersect Berry Creek Falls Trail. The falls cascade over fern-covered cliffs into a frothy pool.

An ideal lunch stop, or turnaround spot, is Sunset Trail Camp, located a mile up Berry Creek Falls Trail and near another falls--Golden Falls.

Skyline to the Sea Trail descends with Waddell Creek and passes through the heart of the beautiful Waddell Valley. Rancho del Oso, “Ranch of the Bears,” as this region is known, has second-generation redwoods, Douglas fir and Monterey pine, as well as lush meadows.

A mile and a half from the ocean, you’ll reach Twin Redwoods Camp. As you near the sea, the redwoods give way to laurel groves and meadow land. Near trail’s end is a freshwater marsh, a favorite stopping place for migratory birds on the Pacific flyway.

A wildlife sanctuary, Theodore J. Hoover Natural Preserve, has been established in the heart of the marsh area for more than 200 kinds of native and migratory birds.

The trail ends at Highway 1. West of the highway is a bus stop and wind-swept Waddell Beach.

Maps detailing the Skyline to the Sea Trail are available at park headquarters or by mail.

One map covers Castle Rock to Big Basin, another covers Big Basin to the sea. A third is a general map of Big Basin Redwoods State Park. The maps, $1 each, are available from the Santa Cruz Mountains Natural History Assn., 101 N. Big Trees Park Road, Felton, Calif. 95018.

Hiking / Santa Cruz Mountains Skyline to the Sea Trail WHERE: Big Basin Redwoods State Park, Boulder Creek LENGTH: 12 miles one way, 1,200-foot elevation loss. TERRAIN: Redwood-forested slopes. HIGHLIGHTS: Fern canyons, inviting trail camps, ocean views. DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Strenuous. PRECAUTIONS: Slippery trail. Bring drinking water. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact Big Basin Redwoods State Park, 21600 Big Basin Way, Boulder Creek, Calif. 95006, (408) 338-6132.