Soviets Taste California Life Via--What Else-a Beach Party

One Soviet sailor tried to eat a hamburger by stabbing it with a fork and munching it like a steak on a stick. Another, not understanding that hot dogs and buns are related, sat down and started devouring the bread alone.

The jet skis that the Navy had announced would entertain the visitors never showed up, and the Boogie boards went unused. Likewise, the volleyball equipment attracted only the American hosts.

But the 100 or so Soviets gamely tackled American food, Southern California surf and reporters’ questions when, after hours of official ceremony Tuesday morning, they were let loose at Gator Beach in Coronado to share a picnic with U.S. sailors and their families.

Igor Bezulov, a 22-year-old from Belograd, Russia, speaks only a few good words of English. Two of them refer to American women.

“Very good,” answered Bezulov quickly.

Bezulov, a bachelor officer on the visiting Soviet destroyer Admiral Vinogradov, stood with his hands across his chest, smoking a cigarette on the beach at the Naval Amphibious Base on Coronado. He had just waded into the surf on the hot, sunny day, only to beat a hasty retreat.

“It was too cold,” he said.

Meanwhile, Alexander Novokhatko, 32, tried to communicate with members of the U.S. Olympic volleyball team.

“We would very much like to see where you train,” the Soviet officer said to the American players, who were wearing uniforms.

Novokhatko, an officer on the Admiral Vinogradov, then corraled the volleyball team into a group picture with several other officers.

Novokhatko’s shirt, sporting a round pin picturing Soviet President Mikail Gorbachev, had become untucked as he gestured with the Americans, trying to get his point across.

The team members, still wearing the Soviet Navy hats the officers loaned them for the picture, invited them to practice.

Although the Soviets declined organized sports, about 30 changed out of their uniforms to leap into the surf. Almost as though they wore uniforms, it was easy to tell the Soviets and Americans apart: the hosts wore modest boxer-style shorts, while the Soviets climbed into bikini-style swim briefs.

Most of the Soviet sailors clearly were unused to an American-style press interview, looking befuddled before answering how they liked the food, the city and other points of Americana.

The sailors said they were under orders not to discuss politics, and questions about Boris Yeltsin, a Soviet politician and Gorbachev rival, were turned away.

Peace and the future of superpower relations fostered an agreeable exchange, though.

“Of course, a time will come when nuclear weapons will not be necessary,” said Bezulov, after feasting on a hamburger. Most of the Soviet sailors clearly enjoyed the food, once they had figured it out, and uniformly described it as great.

Watching a group of Americans play beach volleyball, Sergey Novov, 21, of Kaliningrad, said he was unsure where he would go this week, but that he wanted something other than Sea World, the San Diego Zoo or other typical tourist destinations.

“I want to see how people live here,” he said.

Many of the Soviet sailors went without their V-necked jerseys, exposing a bright red triangle of sunburn just below their throats, the hot San Diego afternoon sun evidently the first their white skin had seen in a while.

Gifts between the two country’s sailors were frequent. The Soviets’ favorite gift was the crimson-colored glass star they wear in the center of the crest on their hats.

Many of the Americans who were in uniform were missing ribbons from their chest, their gifts to the visitors.

Soviet Visitors’ Itinerary

TODAY

8:30 a.m.: Soviet sailors visit the Fleet Training Center and the Naval Amphibious Base on Coronado.

10 a.m.: U.S.-Soviet two-man volleyball games, Ocean Beach; public welcome.

Noon: U.S.-Soviet indoor soccer match at the San Diego Indoor Soccer Center; public welcome.

12:15 p.m.: The Soviet Song-and-Dance Troupe performs at Sea World; public welcome. Afterward, a group of sailors will visit the park.

Noon to 5 p.m.: Public visits Soviet and U.S. ships; tickets required.

12:30 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit the San Diego Zoo.

2 p.m.: Adm. Gennadij Khvatov, the Soviet Pacific Fleet commander, lays a wreath at Ft. Rosecrans National Cemetery. More than 200 U.S. World War II veterans are expected to attend. Public welcome.

5:30 p.m. Soviet sailors visit Naval Training Center for dinner with U.S. counterparts.

7 p.m.: Joint U.S.--Soviet Navy band concert and fireworks display at North Island Naval Air Station.

THURSDAY

8 a.m.: Soviet sailors visit the U.S. Marine Corps Recruit Depot.

8:30 a.m.: Soviet sailors visit the Fleet Training Center and Naval Amphibious Base on Coronado.

Noon: The Soviet Song-and-Dance Troupe performs at the Spreckels Organ Pavilion in Balboa Park; public welcome.

Noon to 5 p.m.: Public visits U.S. and Soviet ships; tickets required.

12:30 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit the San Diego Zoo.

1 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit Sea World.

5:30 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit Naval Training Center for dinner with U.S. counterparts.

6:30 p.m.: The Soviet Song-and-Dance Troupe performs at San Diego State University’s Amphitheater; public welcome.

7 p.m.: U.S.-Soviet soccer match at Southwestern College in Chula Vista; public welcome.

7 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit enlisted and chief petty officers’ clubs, San Diego Naval Station.

7:30 p.m.: Select group of Soviet sailors visits U.S. servicemen’s homes through Host-a-Sailor program.

FRIDAY

10 a.m.: Soviet sailors visit Miramar Naval Air Station.

11:30 a.m.: Senior U.S. and Soviet naval officers address graduating class at Naval Training Center.

Noon: Soviet Song-and-Dance Troupe performs at Spreckels Organ Pavilion, Balboa Park; public welcome.

Noon to 5 p.m.: Public visits U.S. and Soviet ships; tickets required.

12:45 p.m.: Soviet sailors visit Camp Pendleton, where they eat barbecue and watch U.S. Marines put on a rodeo.

7:30 p.m.: Soviet Song-and-Dance Troupe performs at Tidelands Park in Coronado; public welcome.

SATURDAY

9:30 a.m.: Departure Ceremony at Pier 2.

10:15 a.m.: Soviet ships leave.