The Great Tomato : Hot Days of August Bring the Pick of Vegetable Crops

July is hot; August is hotter. What we get from all this heat are the most magnificent vegetables of the summer.

This is the time of year when a vegetable’s biochemical activity is in full swing. The ripening process--achieved mostly by enzymatic actions--converts the vegetable starch into sugar as the cell walls soften. Scent and flavor develop in the process, too.

In particular, eggplants, tomatoes and peppers come alive in the heat with intense flavors and vibrant colors.

But for all the good it does, the August heat can also lead to overripe and overdeveloped vegetables. Overripe vegetables turn mushy; overdeveloped vegetables appear wonderfully large but the flavors are usually diminished. That’s why it’s important to watch your garden carefully: larger vegetables grow very quickly, with weight gains of up to 20 ounces a day. The saying that you can hear the corn growing in August is not that far-fetched.

Pick your vegetables in the early morning, while temperatures are still cool; if it is hot, refrigerate them immediately, uncovered. The cold refrigerator will slow the biochemical activities. The picked vegetables are still alive, so make sure they get enough air when they’re being stored.

GRILLED EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SALAD

1 large eggplant

1/4 cup kosher salt

1 1/2 cups olive oil

Black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 large sweet red pepper, roasted, peeled and seeded

1 small jalapeno chile, roasted, peeled and seeded, optional

Salt

2 ears white corn

1 large red tomato, cut into 4 slices

1 large yellow tomato (or another red tomato), cut into 4 slices (or substitute another red tomato)

1/2 cup fresh-picked cilantro leaves

Peel eggplant and slice 1/2-inch thick. Sprinkle all surfaces of eggplant with kosher salt and place in colander. Allow salt to draw out moisture 1 hour. Rinse off eggplant slices under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Rub eggplant with 1/2 cup olive oil.

Place eggplant on grill over hot coals, searing well, about 4 minutes. Turn over and cook until tender, about 4 minutes.

Cut eggplant slices into 8 (5x3-inch) pieces. Transfer to dish. Season to taste with black pepper and cumin. Add 1/2 cup olive oil.

Combine vinegar and roasted red pepper in blender and puree until smooth. Slowly add remaining 1/2 cup olive oil. Add roasted jalapeno chile and season to taste with plain salt.

Blanch corn in boiling water 4 minutes, then drain. Cut kernels from cob and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble each individual serving, arrange 1 piece eggplant on each plate. Top with 1 slice red tomato, then another piece eggplant. Top with yellow (or red) tomato slice. Spoon pepper sauce around eggplant and tomatoes. Scatter corn over sauce. Sprinkle cilantro across eggplant and tomatoes. Makes 4 servings.