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Bringing Up Baby in the World of Fine Cuisine

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David Shaw, the writer of “How to Train a Baby Gourmet,” the article that accompanied Reichl’s, impresses me as the type of late-blooming yuppie parent who thinks his bundle of joy is such a wonder that all the world should feel privileged to share the same space with the little darling.

I am the mother of four boys, so be assured that I have nothing against children. However, I would never have taken my children to an expensive restaurant at such an early age.

Despite Shaw’s cavalier statement that Lucas wasn’t bothering anybody, if the baby was banging his spoon and shrieking you can bet your aspic he was bothering someone, probably quite a few people (though they no doubt were too polite to complain).

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It was gracious of the chef to be so solicitous, but he wasn’t paying $100 a meal.

TERRI D. KEVILLE

Santa Monica

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