With the two Germanys no longer divided,...

With the two Germanys no longer divided, a “first-ever” pass for travel through East Germany can be obtained as an add-on when buying either a GermanRail pass or a Eurailpass. Fares are $79 for four days, $119 for eight days (or for travelers possessing Eurail Youth Passes, the cost is $59 for four days, $79 for eight days). Both passes are good for unlimited travel in East Germany. To order rail passes, call toll-free (800) 223-6036. Additional information is available from GermanRail’s Los Angeles representative at (213) 479-2772.

Meanwhile, travelers are cautioned to obtain hotel reservations wherever they go in East Germany. What with a shortage of first-class hotels, you could wind up without a room. Berlin, in particular, is crowded. One tourism official told us: “I’d wait until next year when East Germany will be better prepared for heavier tourism.”

Other details from the German National Tourist Office, 444 S. Flower St., Suite 2230, Los Angeles 90071, (213) 688-7332.

West Germany by Coach: For travelers planning a visit to West Germany, a new coaching tour takes in King Ludwig II country. Horse-drawn coaches leave from a village south of Munich on Thursdays/Sundays through October. Tours include transfers from Munich, meals, accommodations, an English-speaking guide. Groups visit two of King Ludwig’s castles as well as several Bavarian villages. For details/prices, contact the German National Tourist Office locally or write to Coaching in Bavaria, R. Nermitz, Kerschlach 2, 8121 Pahl, Federal Republic of Germany.

Leaf Peepers: Soon the highways, byways and back roads of New England will be crowded with travelers taking in the fall colors. To assist motorists, Vermont has published an eight-page guide describing 13 foliage tours. Provides driving instructions, mileage, etc. Covers all areas of the state. In addition, there’s a calendar of events for September/October (craft fairs, foliage festivals, concerts, hayrides, art exhibits, ice cream socials, quilting bees, antique fairs). A total of 242 attractions.

For an “Autumn Survival Kit,” write to the Vermont Travel Division, 134 State St., Montpelier, Vt. 05602.

Meanwhile, visitors are reminded that Vermont innkeepers frequently require a two-night minimum booking during the foliage season. A favorite of ours is The Inn at Wethersfield, where innkeeper Ron Thornburn plays the piano for guests while his wife Mary supervises the kitchen (her culinary talents are famous throughout New England). This old farmhouse exudes all the warmth that leaf peepers dream about. It’s homey, informal. Candles glow of an evening while Thornburn performs at the piano.

The 18th-Century, two-story inn sits back from a country lane at the base of Hawks Mountain between Springfield and Woodstock in southern Vermont. Guests have included Paul Newman and his family and novelist J. D. Salinger. The rate per couple is $160, including a four-course breakfast, high tea each afternoon and a five-course dinner. At Christmastime, the inn takes on a special glow when guests bundle into a horse-drawn sleigh and ride off into the woods in search of a tree. This is a special place--no matter what the season.

The Inn at Wethersfield, Vermont 106, Wethersfield, Vt. 05151. Telephone (802) 263-9217.

Italian Inn: This note from Burt and Sally Clapper of Encino: “We took your advice and spent the last week of June at Tramonto D’Oro in Priano, Italy. We are genuinely well traveled and money is not a major concern. This was an excellent choice. The Esposito family, who are the owners of this little inn, were most kind and helpful. They spoke little English, but every effort was made toward our comfort. The food was excellent and varied and very fairly priced. The rooms are a bit small, but lovely balconies face the sea. The room price was $80 and certainly worth it. I absolutely recommend Tramonto D’Oro, Priano, Amalfi, Italy. It would be difficult to do better for the money.”

This little inn is south of Naples on the Amalfi Drive. Only a few miles beyond Positano, which was the late John Steinbeck’s favorite Italian village.

Air Fares: There are more airline fares than new car models. It gets confusing. And costly. Here’s our advice: Book your flight as far in advance as possible. For the lowest domestic fares, reserve 14/21 days in advance. I booked a coach flight to Hawaii a couple of years ago. The fare was quoted in excess of $800. I asked about an advance-purchase fare. The answer: $425. Same seat, same plane. And a savings of $400. Suggestion: Inquire about midweek fares. Busiest days are Monday/Friday. Often you’ll get a better break on Tuesdays/Wednesdays. Additional savings are available by taking a one-stop (rather than nonstop) flight. Ask your travel agent to explain the other options.

A Letter From Britain: Sherry Voss is an American living in England where she operates a B&B; (in Northampton) and maps out trips for guests doing trips to Cambridge, Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon, the Cotswolds, etc. Voss writes: “There is lots to do locally as well--touring medieval castles and stately homes, including George Washington’s ancestral home and Princess Diana’s family estate. We (she and her British husband, Peter) can offer a great visiting experience to travelers from the U.S.” The Voss home is in a 16th-Century village complete with pub and a cricket green. Rates at the B&B; are $25 per person per night, including a full English breakfast. The trip advice is free.

Sherry and Peter Voss, 7 The Bartons Close, Dallington, Northampton NN57HQ, England. From the United States, call 011-44-604-583994.

London Apartments: L.D. of Corona asks for the name of an agency that rents apartments in London. A U.S.-based company (London Apartments Ltd.) books accommodations in the heart of the city. A pool of more than 500 apartments near theaters, shopping areas, museums. These are fully furnished units. Laundry, maid service available. With hotel prices out of sight, more travelers are opting for apartment rentals this year. Still, nothing is cheap these days in London. Rates from $100 U.S. a night per couple for a studio. Write to London Apartments (USA) Limited, 5 Hidden Valley Road, Lafayette, Calif. 94549. Or call toll-free (800) 366-8748.

Channel Islands: A couple of one-day cruises to the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary are being booked for Aug. 26 and Sept. 23 from Santa Barbara. The motor vessel Condor will sail to waters off Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa Barbara islands (comprising the nation’s largest marine sanctuary). Fares are $45 for adults, $30 for children under 12. Included is a barbecue lunch served aboard the ship. The all-day excursions will leave Santa Barbara at 8 a.m. Contact Channel Islands Marine Sanctuary, 735 State St., Santa Barbara 93101, (805) 966-7107.

Reader Recommendations

California--Joan Hatfield, Santa Monica: “The Briar B&B; Inn, 897 E. Jackson St., San Jose 95112. This is a restored 1875 Victorian farmhouse. Innkeepers are warm and friendly, beds are firm, breakfast is plentiful. Rates from $65.”

Oregon--Sandy and Irle Seskind, Studio City: Enjoyed Meadow Lark B&B;, 755 E. California St., Jacksonville, Ore. 97530 (just outside Ashland). Rates: $55/$85 double occupancy. (We’ve had other good reports on this inn.)

Hawaii--Li Gerygson, Sacramento: “On the Big Island of Hawaii, we enjoyed the Grass Hut, 6245 29th St., Keaau, Hawaii 96749. A suite with kitchenette is $50 per couple. Another is $40 a day.”

Ireland--Savannah Wallace, La Verne: “We have found the most fantastic B&B; in Ireland--Mrs. Kitty Dineen’s Hawthorne Farm, Killarney, County Kerry, Ireland. Located on a trout stream near Killarney. Rate: 13 (about $25 U.S.) per person.”

We regret that only a select few recommendations can be used. They must be brief (typewritten or printed). Only one recommendation per reader, please. Note: Recommendations will not be used unless prices and addresses are included.