THE HOME COOK : An Old-Fashioned Irish Stew

Myrtle Allen spent one period of her life asking everyone she met whether they put carrots in their Irish stew. She was from Shanagarry and her mother had always added carrots. Finally she was satisfied that everyone from Shanagarry to as far north as Tipperary added carrots, but that the classic version has none.

When she’s not researching recipes, Myrtle Allen is running her lovely old Inn, the Ballymaloe House, in County Cork. Ballymaloe is also a cooking school, with a 400-acre farm that raises almost all the food for the family and guests.

The Allen family have owned Ballymaloe House for 50 years. Their hospitality draws many guests who return year after year to be restored by the beauty of the land and Myrtle Allen’s famous good food. Myrtle has even written a small cookbook, “The Ballymaloe Cookbook,” published by Gill and Macmillan, Ireland.

She says in the forward, “Fashion in food is more apparent as nouvelle cuisine sweeps through the kitchens of Europe. If I could start a fashion, it would be to recapture some forgotten flavors, or to preserve some that may soon die.”

This is an old-fashioned Irish Stew whose simple flavors are worth preserving. It is a splendid dish that has the taste of the land, the look of home--and no carrots. The Buttermilk Oatmeal Biscuits are a nice accompaniment, but they must be served warm.

IRELAND’S IRISH STEW

2 pounds lamb

Salt, pepper

4 cups thickly sliced onions (about 1 pound)

4 cups peeled and thickly sliced potatoes (about 4 pounds)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dried and crumbled

2 cups water

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Remove bone and trim excess fat from lamb (leave little fat for flavor). Cut lamb into large bite-size pieces. Spread lamb on sheet of wax paper and season liberally with salt and pepper. Season onions and potatoes liberally with salt and pepper.

Starting with potatoes and ending with potatoes, layer potatoes, thyme, onions and lamb in large heavy casserole. Add water. Cover and bake at 325 degrees 2 hours. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. Makes about 6 servings.

Note: Spoon meat and potatoes in individual soup bowls and ladle broth into bowls. Instead of water, use meat broth for more flavor.

BUTTERMILK-OATMEAL BISCUITS

2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup shortening

1/2 cup oats

2/3 cup buttermilk

Combine flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda in mixing bowl. Stir together with fork to mix well. Cut in shortening until mixture resembles soft bread crumbs. Add oats and buttermilk. Stir with fork just until dough becomes cohesive mass.

Turn dough out onto smooth, lightly floured surface. Knead 12 to 14 times. Pat into 8-inch square about 1/2-inch thick. With knife cut dough into 2-inch squares.

Place biscuits in 2 ungreased 8- or 9-inch round cake pans or on large baking sheet (have dough touching for lighter biscuits, or place 1 inch apart for darker, crisper biscuits.) Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes, or until lightly golden on top. Serve immediately. Makes 8 biscuits.