Clove Encounters : <i> Garlic is the catsup of intellectuals</i> --Anonymous

Angeli Mare, Marina Market Place, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey. (213) 822-1984. Style: Latest branch of Angeli, specializing in seafood. Order the fish soup--there’s enough garlic in it to ward off a cold for years. Setting: Symbolic surf. Recommended: Cacciucco , fish and shellfish soup; bruschetta with olive oil and crushed garlic (served at brunch). Cost per person: $12-$25.

Berty’s, 11712 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood. (213) 207-6169. Style: Pleasant neighborhood restaurant serving food from the ‘80s--the most expensive thing on the menu is a very tender, very garlicky rack of lamb. Setting: Quiet with dim, romantic lighting. Recommended: Rack of lamb; calf’s liver. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Broadway Deli, 1457 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica. (213) 451-0616. Style: A real American bistro and foodie boutique serving a killer Caesar salad. Setting: Exciting. Recommended: Caesar salad; penne with garlic, tomatoes and basil. Cost per person: $12-$25.

Gardel’s, 7963 Melrose Ave., Hollywood. (213) 655-0891. Style: This Argentinian/Italian restaurant named after the great tango singer, Carlos Gardel, is legendary in garlic circles. Setting: Pleasant bistro. Recommended: Roasted chicken with garlic; ajo al horno , a head of baked garlic with the top sliced off--you eat it by squeezing it over a slice of bread. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Versailles, 10319 Venice Blvd., Culver City. (213) 558-3168. Style: Cuban roadhouse serving roasted chicken and pork garlicky enough to cause a Certs shortage. Setting: Noisy with Latin music blaring. Recommended: Roasted chicken; roasted pork. Cost per person: $6-$10.