Feasts for After the Fast : Holiday: At the end of Yom Kippur, many families opt for highly seasoned meals. Seafood is a favorite.

Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement with its 24-hour fast, begins at sundown Sept. 28. After the Yom Kippur fast, many Jewish families welcome a highly seasoned, salty or spicy meal. Fish, associated with fertility, is a traditional favorite for the holiday. In ancient times, a whole fish was often served to begin the meal.

With the help of some local chefs, I have collected some unusual and flavorful seafood recipes from several countries.

Celestino Drago serves a delicious Marinated Fish at his Ristorante Celestino in Beverly Hills. It can be made from a variety of local fish. It’s easy to prepare and is perfect for an after-the-fast Yom Kippur dinner. Red onions and orange peel give it a subtly sweet taste.

Evan Kleiman, chef/owner of L.A.’s three Angeli restaurants, has created a spicy pickled fish dish, based on a recipe from the Jewish community of Venice, Italy.

Smoked Salmon is a popular appetizer in France, and chef Michel Richard’s sophisticated smoked salmon terrine is a specialty at his Citrus Restaurant in Hollywood. Slices of salmon alternate with a cream cheese mixture, resulting in a colorful and decorative terrine.

Joanne Goldberg serves her European grandmother’s Pickled Salmon for Yom Kippur. Cooked salmon and onions are layered and marinated in a pickling brine. Refrigerated for as long as a week, the flavor continues to improve. It is an excellent appetizer, salad or main course.

Any of these fish dishes, combined with a tossed green salad, rye bread and butter and a lemon dessert is a perfect way to break the fast and start the new year.

THOUSAND-LAYER SMOKED SALMON TERRINE

2 1/2 pounds thinly sliced smoked salmon

1/2 cup smoked salmon pieces

2 cups basil leaves (from about 3 bunches)

1/4 pound butter, cut in small pieces

1/2 pound cream cheese, cut in small pieces

1/4 cup olive oil

2 drops hot pepper sauce

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

Juice of 2 lemons

1/2 cup vegetable broth

1 tablespoon lumpfish caviar

Line 3 (12x17-inch) baking sheets with parchment paper. Cover each sheet completely with layer of smoked salmon. Cover with another layer of parchment paper and press to flatten. Chill.

In food processor, process salmon pieces and basil leaves until smooth. Add butter and cream cheese and process until smooth. With machine running, add olive oil and hot pepper sauce. Transfer to bowl.

Soften gelatin in lemon juice. Bring vegetable broth to boil in small saucepan. Remove from heat and add lemon gelatin mixture, stirring to dissolve gelatin. Cool slightly. Add to cream cheese mixture and blend well. Stir in lumpfish caviar. Chill.

Remove 1 baking sheet from refrigerator. Peel off top layer of parchment paper and spread salmon with thin layer of cream cheese mixture. Remove parchment paper from second baking sheet and invert salmon on top of cream cheese mixture, forming second layer. Carefully peel off parchment paper. Spread with cream cheese mixture. Peel off paper from third baking sheet and invert on cream cheese mixture forming third layer; do not remove paper.

Using very sharp knife and ruler as guide, cut layers crosswise in 5 equal pieces, about 12x3 1/2. Remove top paper from 1 strip and spread with thin layer of cream cheese mixture. Continue stacking, removing paper and spreading top layer with cream cheese mixture until all strips are used.

Freeze 15 minutes or until almost firm. Cut crosswise in half, spread 1 half with cream cheese mixture and place second half on top. Wrap well with plastic wrap and place in freezer until completely firm, but not frozen, about 1 hour. When firm, trim sides, using serrated knife or electric knife and cut in half-inch slices. Makes about 12 portions.

EVAN’S SPICY PICKLED WHITEFISH

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced

3/4 cup white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 shallot, peeled and minced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil

1 (1-pound) whitefish fillet, cut into 4 or 6 equal portions

1 cup flour

1/2 cup pine nuts

Rinse raisins in cold water, cover with warm water and let soak 15 minutes. Drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in skillet over medium heat. Saute onions in olive oil about 20 minutes, until very tender and sweet. Add vinegar and bring to boil. Simmer few minutes until slightly reduced. Add raisins and remove from heat.

Prepare marinade by combining mustard, shallot, garlic, lemon juice and remaining 1/4 cup oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Heat about 1 inch vegetable oil in skillet until very hot, but not smoking. Lightly dust fish with flour and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels. Place fish in shallow glass dish and top with onion mixture. Pour marinade over fish and onion mixture and cover with plastic wrap. Chill overnight or at least 3 hours. Serve at room temperature, garnished with pine nuts. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

CELESTINO’S MARINATED FISH

2 pounds fish fillets, cut in medium pieces

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons flour

Oil for deep frying

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon saffron

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

Grated zest of 1 orange

2 medium red onions, lightly sauteed

1/2 cup minced parsley

1/2 cup diced tomatoes

Dry fish with paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Dredge with flour and deep-fry in hot oil 2 or 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and place in 1-inch-deep baking dish in single layer.

Heat olive oil and saffron in saucepan over medium heat. Carefully add vinegar and cook 3 minutes until vinegar evaporates. Add orange zest. Cool slightly.

Layer red onions on top of fish and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add vinegar marinade. Cover and chill 5 hours. Place fish and red onions on serving platter. Stir marinade and pour over fish. Garnish with parsley and tomatoes. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

JOANNE’S GRANNY’S PICKLED SALMON

1 pound salmon fillet

Salt

2 cups boiling water

1 cup white vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon pickling spices

Freshly ground black pepper

1 large onion, thinly sliced

Sprinkle salmon with salt and let stand 20 minutes. Rinse in cold water. Drain and cut in chunks. Place in saucepan and add boiling water. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer salmon to glass bowl or plastic container, reserving fish juice.

Combine vinegar, 1/4 cup water, sugar, bay leaves and pickling spices. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to boil, add fish juice and cool.

Cover salmon with onion slices and pour vinegar mixture over. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Chill overnight. Makes 6 servings.