Sakana: Elegance in White Gloves

The Sakana Club, 11600 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles (213) 447-7777, ignores the local bistro-trattoria trend and gives Los Angeles something not often found in new restaurants: elegant dining. White-gloved waiters set the tables with pricey crystal, silver and china. The dining room--gutted and remodeled three times until the owners were happy, a waiter confided--is modern and discreet, with an expensive Diva light carefully placed to hang over each table. Set in one wall are three glass panels of silently bubbling water--it’s like a giant-size executive toy from the Sharper Image catalogue.

A glass panel in another wall reveals Sakana Club’s pristine kitchen. The chefs working inside prepare elegant Japanese-French food. There are several delicate fish preparations, blood-rare duck breast with peppercorns and a few beef dishes, including a steak appetizer. The chef, Shigefusa Oku, ran several restaurants in Japan, and the pastry chef, Elmer Azuma is known to L.A. diners from his food at Truffles and Chabuya.

Prices are at the high end, but at lunch there is a mini-kaiseki meal for $18 (actually it’s more like a bento-box lunch) that is a bargain considering the variety and quality of the food you get. If you call ahead, the chef will customize a seven-course dinner that will run $35 to $75 per person.