RESTAURANTS : ‘Do You Have a Table for Two at 8?’

If you had picked up the phone last Tuesday at 5 o’clock in an attempt to get a dinner reservation for that evening, you would have had no problem. In fact, not a single restaurant in town would have turned you down.

I know; I tried. When I asked for a table for two at 8, most were happy to accommodate. Spago wanted me to wait until 10, Eureka and Chinois on Main had nothing before 9:30, and I Cugini was booked until 9. Campanile had an 8:45 table. Every other place I called had a table at 8 or 8:30.

The restaurant business, as everybody knows, is not good. Business is better on weekends--but not that much better.

Every year we do a reservation survey, calling 70 restaurants at 4 p.m. Friday with a request for a table for two at 8 on either Friday or Saturday night. Last year, last-minute tables, if you could get them, were pretty much limited to 6 or 10 p.m; this year tables were so much easier to come by that only six restaurants were unable to seat us on one of those nights.

Are there lessons here? Certainly. New restaurants were once the hottest tickets in town, as everyone rushed to be the first on his block to eat there. They aren’t anymore. Now the most popular places, the ones I’ve called “new classics,” have all been open a while. But getting into these restaurants is far from impossible--especially if you’re willing to eat on a weeknight. If you simply must eat out on the weekend, Friday is clearly a better bet than Saturday.

But the real news here is that if you want to eat out on the spur of the moment, you have lots of options; on any night of the week you’ll find tables waiting in all the best places.

NEW RESTAURANTS RESTAURANT: Atlas,3760 Wilshire Blvd. L.A.,380-8400. FRIDAY? (Put on hold. Annoying KXEZ music plays.) “No--booked,” says a smirky voice. (Asked were seats available at any time he replied, “7:45.” SATURDAY? “Sbooked.” Asked if there is anything available at another time? “8:15.” RESTAURANT: Bice, 301 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 272-2423. SATURDAY? “OK. Yes, there’s a space at 8:15. I’m the bartender, I’ll put you in there.” “Tomorrow night is an easier night--no problem.” RESTAURANT: Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 451-1655. FRIDAY? “Um. What about 7:30?” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night, let me see. OK.” RESTAURANT: Broadway Deli, 1457 Third St., Santa Monica, 451-0616. No reservations. RESTAURANT: Chaya Venice, 110 Navy St., Venice, 396-1179. FRIDAY? “Just a moment. No, I do not. How about 10?” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night looks better. 9:15?” RESTAURANT: Eureka, 1845 S. Bundy Drive, West L.A., 447-8000. FRIDAY? “Wait, I’ll look. No, nothing. Call me back later, I might have a cancellation.” SATURDAY? “I’m booked the entire weekend.” RESTAURANT: Fino, 24530 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance, 373-1952. FRIDAY? “Well, we’ll do our best. It might be a few minutes, but we’ll take you close to then.” SATURDAY? “No, not until 9:15.” RESTAURANT: I Cugini, 1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 451-4595. FRIDAY? “Booked solid.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night we’re booked solid too. But we do hold tables for walk-in customers.” RESTAURANT: L’Opera, 101 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 491-0066. FRIDAY? “I can do 8:30.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night I can do 8.30 also.” RESTAURANT: Mexica, 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 933-7385. FRIDAY? “I think the possibilities are very good. There might be a wait. I couldn’t promise you to sit down immediately-- I have 4 parties at 7:30 and 7:45; it might be a wait of 5 or 10 minutes.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night is completely open.” RESTAURANT: Maple Drive, 345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills, 274-9800. FRIDAY? “I can do it in the upper section. Actually, I could give you a table at 7:30 tonight.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night it would be the upper section-- or 6:30 or 9:30.” RESTAURANT: Noa Noa, 464 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 278-1904. FRIDAY? “I could do 8:45. Would 8:30 help you out at all? We don’t seat at 8.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow the closest is at 8:30.” RESTAURANT: N. Beach Bar and Grill, 111 Rose Ave., Venice, 399-3900. FRIDAY? “I have 7:45 tonight.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night? Yes I do.” RESTAURANT: Remi, 1451 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 393-6545. FRIDAY? “Let me check. Not until 9:45.” SATURDAY? “I have 6:15 and 9:15.” RESTAURANT: Tra Fiore, 91 N. Raymond, Pasadena, (818) 796-2233. FRIDAY? “Let me see for you. How about 8:15?” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night we have a private party until 8--but then I can probably do it.” OLDER BUT STILL HOT RESTAURANT: Cafe Mambo, 707 Heliotrope Ave., L.A. 663-5800. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Whichever you like.” RESTAURANT: Celestino, 236 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. 859-8601. FRIDAY? “If you can come at 8:15.” SATURDAY? “No. Can you come at 6:30?” RESTAURANT: Cha Cha Cha, 656 N. Virgil Ave., L.A. 664-7723. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Champagne, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A. 470-8446. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Either night would be fine.” RESTAURANT: Chez Melange 1716 Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. 540-1222. “We are not available to answer the phone. Leave your name and number and we’ll call you back.” RESTAURANT: Checkers, 535 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 624-0000. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “No problem.” RESTAURANT: Chianti Cucina, 7383 Melrose Ave., L.A. 653-8333. FRIDAY? “No nothing tonight or tomorrow in Cucina.” SATURDAY? “Only thing I have is tomorrow at 9 in the Chianti.” RESTAURANT: City, 180 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. 938-2155 FRIDAY? “No, but I have a 7:30.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: DC3, 2800 Donald Douglas Loop N., Santa Monica. 399-2323. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “That’s a little different story. 8:15 or 8:30 would be better.” RESTAURANT: Engine Co. 28, 644 S. Figueroa St., L.A. 624-6996. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Fennel, 1535 Ocean Ave., S.M., 394-2079. FRIDAY? “I could do 7 or 8:30.” SATURDAY? “Same thing.” RESTAURANT: Fresco, 514 S. Brand, Glendale (818) 247-5541. FRIDAY? “Yes, it’s fine.” SATURDAY? “Either 7:30 or 8:30.” RESTAURANT: Indigo, 8222 1/2 West 3rd St., L.A. 653-0140. FRIDAY? “No, only time I have is 9:30.” SATURDAY? “Only 5, 6, 6:30 and 9:30.” RESTAURANT: La Toque, 8171 Sunset Blvd., L.A. 656-7515. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Ma Be, 8722 West 3rd St., L.A. 276-6223 FRIDAY? “Yes, no problem.” SATURDAY? “Either night is fine.” RESTAURANT: Orso, 8706 West 3rd St., L.A., 274-7144. FRIDAY? “8:15 inside.” SATURDAY? “8 outside.” RESTAURANT: Pazzia, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A. 657-9271. FRIDAY? “No problem.” SATURDAY? “It’s OK.” RESTAURANT: Rebecca’s, 2025 Pacific Ave., Venice. 306-6266. FRIDAY? No. “I have a 6:45, but that sounds a little early for you, then . . . oooh, it skips all the way over to 9.” SATURDAY? “I see an 8. I see an 8:15. Oh, the phone, couldn’t you just kill me? OK, sweetie, I’m yours. You want to come in at 8 Saturday?” RESTAURANT: Robata, 250 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. 274-5533. FRIDAY? “Either night is OK.” SATURDAY? “OK.” RESTAURANT: Rockenwagner, 1023 Abbott Kinney Blvd., Venice. 399-6504. FRIDAY? “Mmmmm, let’s see. I have an 8:30.” SATURDAY? “No. 8:30.” RESTAURANT: Toscana, 11633 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 820-2448. FRIDAY? “No way, I can do 9:45.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow I only have 9:30.” RESTAURANT: Trattoria Angeli, 11651 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A. 478-1191. FRIDAY? “No. I have 8:45.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Tribeca, 242 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. 874-2322. FRIDAY? “6, 6:30, 7 or after 9:30.” SATURDAY? “OK.” RESTAURANT: Tulipe, 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A. 655-7400. FRIDAY? “Hold on a minute . . . no, we’re pretty full up.” SATURDAY? “How about making a reservation for next weekend?” RESTAURANT: West Beach Cafe, 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice. 823-5396. FRIDAY? “No. 7:30 or 9.” SATURDAY? “No. 7:30 or 9.” NEW CLASSICS RESTAURANT: Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 938-1447. FRIDAY? “No way, those slots get sold out two to three weeks in advance.” SATURDAY? “No.” RESTAURANT: Chinois, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica. 392-9025 FRIDAY? “No.” SATURDAY? “Sorry, but both nights are booked.” RESTAURANT: Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A. 857-0034. FRIDAY? “Only opening we have is for 7:30.” SATURDAY? “We are completely booked.” RESTAURANT: Locanda Veneta, 8638 West 3rd St., L.A. 274-1893. FRIDAY? “No way. Not tonight. I have 5:30 or 6.” SATURDAY? “Tomorrow night I only have 10:30.” RESTAURANT: Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A. 467-1108. FRIDAY? “In the bar area at 8 or else 9:30.” SATURDAY? “The only thing I have is 9:30.” RESTAURANT: Parkway Grill, 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena. (818) 795-1001. FRIDAY? No. 9. SATURDAY? “That’s even worse. Uh, I have a 9:30.” RESTAURANT: Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas. (818) 340-6029. FRIDAY? No. “I’m sorry. I’m already booked up.” SATURDAY? “No, the same.” RESTAURANT: 72 Market Street, 72 Market St., Venice. 392-8720. FRIDAY? “When, tonight? No. There’s nothing until 10.” SATURDAY? “No. 10.” RESTAURANT: St. Estephe, 2640 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach. 545-1334. FRIDAY? “Nope. 7 or 8:15.” SATURDAY? “It’s very busy, but there’s one 8:15.” RESTAURANT: Spago, 1114 Horn Ave., W. Hollywood. 652-4025. FRIDAY? Phone busy. Calls at 4:23, 4:25, 4:30, 4:32, 4:38, 5:04. Get through at 5:10, then instantly put on hold for 5 minutes. “No, I haven’t had any cancellations.” SATURDAY? “No, I’m all booked up.” RESTAURANT: Trumps, 8764 Melrose Ave., W. Hollywood. 855-1480. FRIDAY? “Oooh, uh, there’s a 9:30 or a 7.” SATURDAY? “That’s a lot better.” OLD CLASSICS RESTAURANT: Bistro, 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. 273-5633. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Not at 8, 9.” RESTAURANT: Chasen’s, 9039 Beverly Blvd., W. Hollywood. 271-2168. FRIDAY? No. “6 or 8:30 and anytime after.” SATURDAY? No. “The same.” RESTAURANT: Dan Tana’s, 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hollywood. 275-9444. FRIDAY? “No. 7 or 9:30.” SATURDAY? “No. It’s the same thing, 7 or 9:30.” RESTAURANT: Hotel Bel-Air, 701 Stone Canyon Road, L.A. 472-1211. FRIDAY? “No, I have an 8:30 on the terrace.” SATURDAY? “Only 7:30 or 8:30.” RESTAURANT: Jimmy’s, 201 Moreno Drive, Beverly Hills. 879-2394. FRIDAY? “Could you come at 7:30? No, actually, I could take you tonight.” SATURDAY? “Oh, tomorrow. Could you come at 7:30?” RESTAURANT: La Scala, 410 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. 275-0579. FRIDAY? “OK.” SATURDAY? “No problem.” RESTAURANT: L’Escoffier, Beverly Hilton, 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. 274-7777. FRIDAY? “OK. But could you come a little late?” SATURDAY? “No, sold out.” RESTAURANT: L’Ermitage, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.. 652-5840. FRIDAY? “Certainly.” SATURDAY? “No.” RESTAURANT: L’Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A. 652-9770. FRIDAY? “Tonight, yes.” SATURDAY? “No.” RESTAURANT: Michael’s, 1147 Third St., Santa Monica. 451-0843. FRIDAY? “No. I have a 7 or a 7:30.” SATURDAY? “No. That’s worse--9:15.” RESTAURANT: Rex, 617 S. Olive St., L.A. 627-2300. FRIDAY? “No. Tonight, we are closed for a filming.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica. 829-4313. FRIDAY? No. “Either 7:30 or 8:30.” SATURDAY? No. “Worse. 9 or 9:30.” CELEBRITY SPOTS RESTAURANT: Il Giardino, 9235 West 3rd St., Beverly Hills. 275-5444. FRIDAY? “Yes.” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. 276-0615. FRIDAY? “OK.” SATURDAY? “OK.” RESTAURANT: The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A. 274-8303. FRIDAY? “Either 6:45 or 9:15.” SATURDAY? “I’m sorry. Tomorrow I have nothing.” RESTAURANT: Le Dome, 8720 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. 659-6919. FRIDAY? “Yes. Smoking or non-smoking?” SATURDAY? “Yes.” RESTAURANT: Morton’s, 8800 Melrose Ave., W. Hollywood. 276-5205. FRIDAY? “I’ll work something out.” SATURDAY? “I’ll work something out.” RESTAURANT: Nicky Blair’s, 8730 Sunset Blvd., W. Hollywood. 659-0929. FRIDAY? “Only 7:30 or 8:30.” SATURDAY? “Ugh. Nine o’clock.” L a urie Ochoa, Charles Perry and Kathie Jenkins assisted with this article.