Back in the ‘50s, when wholesale houses...

Back in the ‘50s, when wholesale houses printed the little oil-cloth covered wine cards for restaurants, there was often a comment under each wine. They tended to say idiotic things such as: “Pinot Noir: Fruity and charming.” “Chardonnay: Rich and sublime.” “Zinfandel: Complex and rewarding.”

Fino also puts comments on its 100-wine list, but there’s a difference: These descriptions are useful.

Nothing new here, of course. The list at Fino’s cousin restaurant, Chez Melange, offers a superb rendition of this sort of list. (As did, it must be noted, the list at the recently closed Bouzy Rouge in Newport Beach.)

These descriptions are particularly useful because of the varied selection on the list. Wine lovers will appreciate rarely seen items such as 1989 Vita Nova Chardonnay ($29), 1989 Pighin Pinot Grigio ($16), a Sancerre and a Condrieu, wines from Ric Forman, Woltner, Lodovico Antinori and Jean Leon.

Pricing is fair, with a wide array of wines under $20. Best value in white wines may be the 1989 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc at $16; best red wine value: 1988 Forman Domaine La Grande Roche, a Rhone blend, at $20.

For splurgers, there’s 1986 Ornellaia ($60) and 1986 Sassicaia ($88) from adjoining properties in southern Tuscany; 1989 Forman Chardonnay ($45), and 1987 Spottswoode Cabernet ($45).