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Petite France, 1835 Newport Blvd., Suite D-156, Costa Mesa. Open daily, except Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (714) 650-9363. About the only hints that this storefront stand is a low-budget operation are the foam serving trays and plastic utensils. The quality of the food--from beef Bourguignon in red wine sauce to prawns sauteed with cilantro--is light years beyond the nearest Happy Star. Yet most entrees are under $5.

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