A Pair of American Classics

Many people consider meat loaf, American-style, the poor, shabby relative of the aristocratic French pate or terrine. Not true at all--a well-made meat loaf has just as good a pedigree as pate. It’s only that we’ve had so many clumsy, crude examples of meat loaf that it has lost its prestige.

Meat loaf has everything going for it: relatively inexpensive ingredients and simple preparation. And don’t forget its day-after bonus: cold meat-loaf sandwiches on rye bread with dill pickles on the side.

Two ingredients that give American meat loaf its identity are catsup and Worcestershire sauce. They are an absolute must, but they have to be used judiciously.

Mix-in-the-Pan Chocolate Cake is another American classic that happens to be appropriate today for people who worry about their fat intake. This cake went by many names: three-hole cake, crazy cake, wacky cake and crazy mixed-up cake. It is dark, moist and chocolatey and can be ready for the oven in less than five minutes.

Mix-in-the-Pan Chocolate Cake comes from the era in which our meat loaf was popular. From the late ‘30s to the ‘50s, these dishes were typical Wednesday night dinners in homes across America. Both recipes are examples of American dishes at their best: easy to make, inexpensive and very good.

AMERICAN MEAT LOAF

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup finely chopped onions

1 cup finely chopped celery

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 pound chuck or round beef, ground

2 boneless pork chops (about 1/2 pound), ground

1 1/4 cups fresh bread crumbs

1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Pepper

3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup catsup

2/3 cup water

Melt butter in large skillet. Add and saute onions, celery and garlic until tender, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Combine ground beef and pork and bread crumbs in large bowl. Add sauteed vegetables, salt, pepper to taste, nutmeg, cayenne, Worcestershire, catsup and water. Mix thoroughly with hands. Pat meat loaf in oval-shaped mound in 11x7-inch baking dish and bake at 350 degrees 45 to 50 minutes.

MIX-IN-THE-PAN CHOCOLATE CAKE

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/3 cup salad oil

1 cup water

Powdered sugar

Grease and flour 8-inch square pan. Combine flour, baking soda, granulated sugar, cocoa and salt. Sift together into baking pan. Shake pan to level ingredients, then with finger or back of spoon make 3 small holes in flour mixture.

Pour vinegar into 1 hole, vanilla into another and oil into third one. Pour water over all. Stir mixture very well with fork, reaching all over bottom and corners of pan to incorporate all flour. (Mixing will take about 1 1/2 minutes and batter will be almost smooth. Small lumps will disappear in baking.)

Bake at 350 degrees about 30 minutes, or until wood pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean. Remove cake from oven, and if planning to serve it unmolded, let cool in pan 5 minutes before turning out onto rack. Otherwise, let cake cool completely in pan. Before serving dust with powdered sugar. Makes 1 (8-inch) square pan or 8 servings.