Meat Loaf : Get the Red Out: The Turkey Alternative : Loaf: Ground turkey, 97% fat-free, makes a good substitute for the ground chuck that is the cornerstone of classic meat loaf.

Like so many mothers raising kids in the 1950s and 1960s, my Mom got her meat loaf recipe from a Dr. Spock baby book. Seasoned with all-American spices--catsup, salt and pepper--Mom’s version had mere hints of onion and celery. Bound with ready-made bread crumbs, this meat loaf of my wonder years came in thin slices, shrouded in thick gravy, and always served with mashed potatoes and green vegetables. It was one of my favorite meals growing up, but by the time I hit 16 I swore I’d never eat meat loaf again.

Meat loaf had become especially offensive and bourgeois to my eyes. And as I rebelled against middle-class values, I rejected meat altogether. I ate tuna every day for awhile, only to find out years later about the dolphins trapped in tuna-fishermen’s nets.

It took another 14 years, marriage to a carnivore and the birth of twin sons to reawaken my meat-loaf consciousness. I discovered that ground turkey, even though it’s 97% fat-free, closely resembles the ground chuck that was the cornerstone of my mother’s meat loaf. With a vision of Mom’s meat loaf in my mind, I felt a compulsion to cook a variation of her classic meal.

My first turkey loaf, or alternative meat loaf, was a primavera production: green peppers, parsley, zucchini, onions and half a cup of fresh Italian tomato sauce. Then I boldly mixed in some pesto, two eggs from our back-yard chicken, homemade whole-wheat bread crumbs and five cloves of diced garlic. A new family tradition had begun.

This Greek-style turkey loaf uses Kalamata olives, nutmeg, spinach and onions.

GREEK-STYLE

TURKEY LOAVES

2 pounds ground turkey

1 1/2 cups fresh whole-wheat bread crumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped pitted Kalamata olives

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup finely chopped spinach

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup canned tomato sauce

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 eggs, beaten

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Combine turkey, bread crumbs, olives, onion, garlic, spinach, salt, tomato sauce, tomato paste, eggs, parsley, nutmeg and lemon juice in large bowl. Lightly knead or stir to mix. Shape into 1 or 2 loaves and place in baking pans of choice. Bake at 350 degrees 55 to 65 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Curried turkey loaf with lentils is currently in the research-and-development phase, but this Southwestern loaf has hit the mark: Its secret ingredient is mesquite-flavored barbecue sauce.

SOUTHWESTERN

TURKEY LOAF

2 pounds ground turkey

1 1/2 cups fresh whole-wheat bread crumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/2 cup finely chopped sweet red pepper

1/2 cup mesquite-flavored barbecue sauce

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 eggs, beaten

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 teaspoons rubbed sage

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Combine turkey, bread crumbs, red onion, red pepper, barbecue sauce, tomato paste, eggs, parsley, sage, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in large bowl. Knead lightly or stir to mix. Shape into 1 or 2 loaves and place in baking pans of choice. Bake at 350 degrees 55 to 65 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

ITALIAN-STYLE

TURKEY LOAVES

2 pounds ground turkey

1 1/2 cups fresh whole-wheat bread crumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1/2 cup finely chopped green pepper

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1/2 cup canned Italian vegetable tomato sauce

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 eggs, beaten

2 teaspoons crushed oregano

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon lemon juice

4 or 5 cloves garlic, minced

Combine turkey, bread crumbs, onion, green pepper, parsley, basil, tomato sauce, tomato paste, eggs, oregano, salt, pepper, lemon juice and garlic in large bowl. Lightly knead or stir to mix. Shape into 1 or 2 loaves and place in baking pans of choice. Bake at 350 degrees 55 to 65 minutes. Makes 6 servings.