Wording of ‘Mission Statement’ Disapproved

The Mondavi “Mission Statement,” which has been used on the back labels of wine bottles to offset the negative impact of a mandated government warning statement, has been disapproved for use by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms.

The Mondavi statement has appeared on Robert Mondavi Winery bottles for more than two years. It has also been adopted by a number of other wineries, including Jordan and Landmark.

The statement reads: “Wine has been with us since the beginning of civilization. It is the temperate, civilized, sacred, romantic mealtime beverage recommended in the Bible. Wine has been praised for centuries by statesmen, philosophers, poets and scholars. Wine in moderation is an integral part of our culture, heritage and gracious way of life.”

In late November, BATF ruled that the Mondavi statement was being disapproved because it was misleading.

BATF’s position was outlined in a four-page letter from Jerry Bowerman, chief of the Product Compliance Branch of BATF, to Sara Schorske, who seeks label approvals through Compliance Specialists, her Santa Rosa company.

In the letter, Bowerman said the Mondavi statement “(implies) that the consumption of wine is beneficial to society and is recommended by religious authorities without mentioning any of the possible harmful societal effects arising from the consumption of wine, or the fact that religious authorities may disagree on whether consumption of wine is permitted by the Bible . . . such statements constitute irrelevant material that tends to create a misleading impression.”

Bowerman, interviewed by telephone, said the Mondavi statement could be misleading to some people and did not meet BATF’s requirement that statements on labels be accurate and specific. He said the Mondavi Winery could re-submit the label for approval if it is reworded and included relevant material that is truthful, accurate and specific and that does not create a misleading impression.

A spokesman for the Mondavi winery said no decision had yet been made, but added that it was possible that the winery would re-word the statement and re-submit it for approval.

Bowerman said the Mondavi statement itself must tell both sides of the issue--including the possible drawbacks to consuming wine in moderation. He said the presence of the government warning statement on wine bottles, mandated by Congress since November of 1989, does not satisfy that requirement.

The required statement reads: “Government Warning. 1) According to the Surgeon General, women should not drink alcoholic beverages during pregnancy because of the risk of birth defects. 2) Consumption of alcoholic beverages impairs your ability to drive a car or operate machinery and may cause health problems.”

Bowerman was asked whether the government warning label didn’t violate BATF’s requirement that all statements on wine labels be accurate and specific. He replied that the warning statement, because it was mandated by Congress, falls under a separate law.

In his letter to Schorske, Bowerman said BATF would also take a strict view of any statements on wine labels that make claims for wine of a curative or therapeutic nature, even if supported by scientific evidence.

“A statement that attributes positive health benefits to the moderate consumption of wine, even if backed up by medical evidence, may have an overall misleading effect, if such statement is not properly qualified, does not give both sides of the issue, and does not outline the categories of individuals for whom such positive effect would be outweighed by numerous negative health effects . . . such representations are likely to mislead.”

Andre Tchelistcheff, the dean of California wine makers, will return to Beaulieu Vineyard in March after 18 years away from the property, a spokesman for the Napa Valley winery said. Russian-born and French-trained, Tchelistcheff joined Beaulieu in 1939 and made every wine at the property until 1973, when he quit after a dispute over procedures with the corporate parent, Heublein.

After leaving Beaulieu, he was a consultant to literally dozens of wineries throughout the country. His son, Dmitri, also became a nationally recognized wine consultant.

In the last year, Tchelistcheff gave up his consulting positions with a dozen wineries. He had been a consultant to the Stinson Lane wineries (including Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and Conn Creek in the Napa Valley), as well as Clos Pegase, Jordan, Swanson, Buena Vista, Martini, Domaine Michel, Fieldstone, Franciscan and Sequoia Grove. He left those positions with the exception of Buena Vista, for which he has consulted for decades.

“We’re all excited about Andre’s return to BV,” said spokesman Ron Batori. “This will allow our wine makers to benefit from his experience, his understanding of BV, and will provide a historical perspective for us, especially as Andre analyzes the vineyards.”

Tchelistcheff, who will be 90 later this year, will work with BV’s chief enologist, Joel Aiken, in crafting the wines, notably the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. BV recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of its first release of this wine.

Tasting Notes

* 1987 Buena Vista Merlot, Private Reserve ($17.50)--You have to take this on faith, but it’s a lovely wine with a future. One of few Merlots from the Carneros, the aroma is herbal but mild, with a nuance of oak. It’s well made, but will be best held a couple of years. Today it’s a tad austere. Buena Vista has three other Private Reserve wines out that seem pretty expensive for what you get. A 1988 Chardonnay ($17.50) is a “small” wine with a trace of astringency in the finish; a 1987 Pinot Noir ($13.50) is well made, but lacks distinctive fruit, and a 1986 Cabernet is attractive though very lean and almost Loire-like, not worth its suggested retail of $23.50.