Designer Dining

Feasts for the eyes. Atlas Bar & Grill, 3760 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 380-8400. Style: Where the incredibly chic gather to eat ordinary food. Setting: Spectacularly theatrical with iron sculptures, grinning gold suns and thunderbolt lighting. Recommended: Charred ahi ahi on a bed of mixed greens; smoked chicken with penne and fresh vegetables; bread pudding. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica. (213) 451-1655. Style: Nouvelle Mexican with salsa. Setting: Living cartoon. Recommended: Anticuchos, skewers of marinated beef heart; empanadas; spicy baby back ribs. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Eureka, 1845 S. Bundy Dr., West Los Angeles. (213) 447-8000. Style: Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant-brewery where wurst is always best. Setting: Industrial strength--nuts, bolts, cogs, gears and sprockets. Recommended: Grandma Puck’s cheese ravioli; Cajun shrimp sausage; buttermilk chocolate cake. Cost per person: $20-$35.

Noa Noa, 464 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 278-1904. Style: Nouvelle Polynesian--the menu’s gone bananas. Setting: High-tech paradise--handcrafted wrought iron chairs, curving copper bar, pebble floor. Recommended: Warm oysters in sesame seed crust; potato chips; passion fruit mousse. Cost per person: $25-$45.

Rex Il Ristorante, 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles. (213) 627-2300. Style: Nuovo cucina in Lalique luxury. Setting: Drop-dead Art Deco--a ‘30s time warp. Recommended: Smoked salmon with caviar; tagliolini with tomato and basil; penne with eggplant. Cost per person: $40-$80.