Whole Leeks--but Without the Grit

Leeks, the sweetest and mildest member of the onion family, are available year-round, though supplies increase between October and May.

When selecting this vegetable, look for a clean, white lower portion and a fresh green top. Leeks that give slightly to the touch are less likely to be woody inside. Those smaller than 1 1/2 inches in diameter are generally delicately flavored and are the most tender.

As a leek grows, soil gets trapped between the leaves, so they must be carefully cleaned, especially before being cooked whole. Using a chef’s knife, cut off the root end (Step 1), then turn the leek and trim all but a few inches off the fibrous green tops (Step 2). The coarse outer leaves, which often contain the sandy grit that hides between the layers, should be peeled off (Step 3). Rinse thoroughly under cold water.

Using a chef’s knife, pierce the white portion of the leek just below the leaves, then draw the knife through the green top (Step 4). Make a quarter turn and repeat the procedure, quartering the leaves.

Rinse the leek, top-end-down, with cold water, either in a bowl or under the tap. Shake to loosen the soil (Step 5).

Place the cleaned leeks in a large skillet (Step 6) and add about one cup of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer eight to 10 minutes, just until tender when pierced with a fork.

Leeks may also be steamed on a rack over boiling water or cooked in a microwave oven according to the manufacturer’s directions. Overcooking by any method, however, makes this vegetable mushy.

Serve the leeks hot with butter and a sprinkling of fresh herbs (chervil or tarragon) or with hollandaise sauce. They may also be marinated in vinaigrette dressing and served chilled.

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