A Squid by Any Other Name . . .

If the world were a more sensible place, squid would be the most popular fish in the market. The white flesh is flavorful and mild, high in protein, low in fat. It’s absurdly quick and easy to cook. There are no bones. And on top of all that, it’s a bargain. Squid is usually among the least expensive of the fishmonger’s offerings.

So why isn’t it a familiar staple, like crab meat or cod or clams? Partly, no doubt, because of the squid’s unusual looks, and partly, perhaps, because it has such an unfortunate name. Things are more melodious in the Mediterranean, where squid is a favorite food. The Spanish call it calmar, the Portuguese, lula. To the French it’s either encornet or calamar, and Italians say calamari. Supposedly, there’s a lot in a name; the Chinese gooseberry went nowhere until rechristened kiwi fruit. So maybe we should call squid “calamary,” the way some British writers do.

Squid can be grilled, sauteed, stewed, fried or baked, served simply with a squeeze of lemon or cooked in an aromatic sauce.

No matter what you do with squid, the key is to avoid overcooking it. All the small squids commonly sold are naturally tender, but they will turn rubbery if kept on the heat too long. One easy way to get started with squid is to cut it into pieces and use it in scallop recipes. Another is to fry the pieces in light batter, as you would clams.

Though cut squid cooks evenly and looks unthreatening, the whole bodies are perfect receptacles for stuffing. They look terrific on the plate, like fat little piglets, succulent and fine.

OCEAN PIGLETS

(Squid With Mushroom and Spinach Stuffing)

1 1/2 pounds small cleaned squid, about 8 or 9

1 scant cup coarse dry bread crumbs (from unsweetened French or Italian bread)

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon butter

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups diced mushrooms

1 1/2 cups diced onion

2 heaping cups coarsely chopped fresh spinach leaves, or 3/4 cup finely chopped frozen spinach leaves

1/2 cup minced parsley

2 large cloves garlic, finely minced

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup white wine

Lemon wedges

Cut tentacles from squid and remove fins. Rinse bodies, pat dry and reserve. Chop tentacles and fins into small pieces and reserve. Combine bread crumbs and milk in small bowl and let stand.

Melt butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil in wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until well browned. Add onion. Reduce heat slightly and cook until onion is also well browned and vegetables have been reduced to about half their original volume.

Add spinach and cook, stirring, until it wilts and has shed all free moisture. Stir in chopped squid and cook about 5 minutes longer, or just until opaque. Remove from heat.

Drain any liquid from bread crumbs and squeeze gently, keeping moist but not wet. Mix in squid mixture, parsley, garlic and thyme. Stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Stuff squid bodies lightly to prevent bursting in cooking. (There may be bit of stuffing left over, a nibble for the cook.) Sew tops closed with wood picks. Pat dry with paper towels. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Fry squid, turning 2 to 3 times about 5 minutes or until completely opaque and well flecked with brown. (They will swell into round little piglets.)

Transfer piglets to serving plate and keep warm. Pour white wine into skillet and simmer until reduced by half, stirring with metal spatula to remove browned bits. Pour juices over squid and serve, garnished with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.