THE HOME COOK : The Cooks : A Sweet, Old-Fashioned Chocolate Pudding

Recently I’ve been missing the chocolate puddings of my childhood. The pudding of yesteryear was as simple as a smile, creamy and smooth with a subdued chocolate flavor. It hit just the right note at the end of a meal.

Today’s intensely chocolaty pudding is rich and exciting, and it makes a big statement. But we’ve gone overboard with chocolate--our recipes for cakes, cookies and puddings often call for half a pound or more. There seems to be no limit to the excess. We’ve eaten thousands of chocolate truffles and mountains of chocolate-decadence cake; we’re out of chocolate control and we’ve been diagnosed as chocoholics. In short, we’re fixated on chocolate.

If you want to reform, try this old-fashioned chocolate pudding. It will surprise you to discover that just two little tablespoons of cocoa can make such a good dessert for four people. This pudding is totally different from anything you’ve ever tasted before, including the supermarket’s instant mixes. It is light in calories and price, and it takes very little effort to make.

A very nice match with this pudding is Thick Celery Soup With Green and White Beans. Celery has generally been one of the minor vegetables in soup, always a “bridesmaid and never a bride”--until now. This recipe makes a thick, light-green, delicate soup that abounds with celery flavor. The addition of lima and white beans gives it the substance it needs. Serve it with warm whole-wheat tortillas.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING

2 cups milk

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon vanilla

Place 1 1/2 cups milk in heavy-bottom saucepan and scald. (This is point of heat that is just short of boil, when steam is rising from milk and ring of tiny bubbles forms around edge. Not critical, but milk should be very hot.)

While milk is heating, place cornstarch, sugar, salt and cocoa into small bowl. Stir with spoon to mix, then add remaining 1/2 cup cold milk, stirring until well blended.

When milk is hot, stir into cornstarch mixture and mix until well blended. Pour mixture back into saucepan and constantly stir until thickened. When pudding begins to boil, boil 1 minute, stirring briskly. Remove from heat and pour into bowl.

When cool, stir in vanilla. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Serve with tablespoon of whipping cream over each serving.

CELERY SOUP WITH GREEN AND WHITE BEANS

4 cups coarsely chopped celery

1 medium onion, diced

1 quart chicken stock

1 1/2 cups cooked Great Northern beans

2 cups cooked lima beans

Salt, pepper

Place celery and onion in large pot. Add 3 cups chicken stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes or until vegetables are tender.

Drain and set aside liquid from vegetables.

Place vegetables in food processor or blender, add small amount of hot liquid and process until pureed.

Place pureed vegetables back in pot with hot liquid and remaining 1 cup chicken stock. Add cooked beans and simmer 10 minutes or until beans are heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.