DESIGNERS : One Stop, Two Shops for Ferre

Milan-based designer Gianfranco Ferre was in town this week for the opening of his second Rodeo Drive boutique. This one is named after him. The other, Christian Dior, is two doors away. Ferre has designed both collections since 1989.

That makes him the European with the strongest presence on the street. Although other big names, including Karl Lagerfeld and Gianni Versace, also create two major collections--Chanel and Lagerfeld for one, Versace and Genny for the other--only Chanel and Versace now have Rodeo Drive shops.

Commuting from Milan to Paris every week has taught Ferre the finer points of French versus Italian fashion. “The French woman’s style is not one of details,” he said. “She likes simple fabrics and big, strong shapes.” His best-selling Dior suit for fall is solid-gray flannel with oversize rhinestone buttons.

“Italian style is more pure, with simpler shapes, technically advanced fabrics and sophisticated details. It’s for women with a discrete sensibility.”

His Ferre customers are freer and more sure of their style than Dior women, who like things to be determined for them, he said.

Until he took over at Dior, its ready-to-wear collections consisted of slightly simplified couture patterns sewn up in less expensive fabrics. There was hardly such a thing as Dior sportswear, which has made up the bulk of women’s wardrobes for the past 20 years.

The need for a sportier element at Dior helps explain why he got the job. His own label is all about sportswear, for day and evening dressing. “From the beginning, I have kept things the same at Ferre,” he said. “Straight skirts, big white shirts, easy pants.”

The new Ferre shop, a telescope-shaped structure with small entrance and wide second floor, carries men’s and women’s wear. The day of the opening, Ferre dressed in his signature polka-dotted tie and a matching clover-green sport jacket from his own designer line.