RESTAURANT REVIEW : Dining Out With a Food Warrior at Hip Mexica

I recently found a new icon for those of us who, for whatever reason, feel compelled to eat in as many restaurants and try as many different kinds of food as possible. This icon, depicted in a painting done in the style of a Mexican lottery card, is wearing a loincloth. His quiver is full of arrows. And he’s armed with a knife and fork in each hand. “El Mexica,” he’s called, and he’s a welcome addition to my pantheon: a food warrior.

The food temple in which this deity resides is Mexica (pronounced Meh- shee -ka). Previously, it was the classic, ‘30s-looking Chinese Kitchen. Now it’s a hip Mexican restaurant on an ever-hipper section of Beverly Boulevard just east of CBS.

I liked the place the second I walked inside. It’s great-looking, with blue booths and blond wood wainscotting, some great blue and yellow Mexican clay tiles and competent murals. A great collection of animal masks and some Calaveras skeleton musicians are tastefully displayed. Maybe it’s the soothing deep greens and blues on the walls coupled with white tablecloths and high ceilings, but the atmosphere here feels quintessentially L.A.--it’s a cross between Union Station, the dark old Mexican restaurants of my youth and the nouvelle bar ‘n’ grill. Raymond Chandler should be grousing in a corner.

Maybe some soon-to-be-discovered contemporary Raymond Chandler is grousing in a corner. The clientele does seem an attractive bookish set. We sat among young husbands and wives, intense-talking friends, dates staring each other down and, on occasion, a few remarkable-looking fashion models.

The waiters and waitresses wear black T-shirts and jeans and, in addition to looking pretty darn cool, there’s something capable and refreshingly non-servile about them. We order food; they make sure we get it.

The menu offers a sophisticated and interesting range of Mexican food. Not everything’s great, but there are a few items that will keep the hefty crowds returning. The cheese gorditas , for example, are wonderful: extra-fat tortillas opened up and stuffed with the creamiest beans, cheese and fresh, crunchy lettuce. Also great: a classic Caesar salad. A satisfying and impressive plate of food is the pollo Mexica entree: It’s half a very plump, very juicy bird served with a good dollop of guacamole and a good green enchilada.

One hot, smoggy afternoon, I found myself thoroughly refreshed by the ceviche tostada , two crisp corn tortillas topped with a clean-tasting lemon-soaked fish mixed with lots of chopped tomatoes and cilantro and served with sides of black beans and rice.

Also worth ordering is queso fundido , melted cheese in a frying pan you get to scoop up with hot tortillas. And the sopes , which are like tiny low-walled souffle cups made out of corn tortilla dough are filled with delectable bits of saucy stewed meats. The shrimp Mazatlan and the snapper Veracruzana will no doubt also have many fans.

Other dishes were disappointments: The shrimp cocktail had a metallic bite. The rice and refried beans that ate up space on most of the dinner plates were dry and bland. The black beans were OK and the white rice was often overcooked. The pollo pibil and the ropa vieja , while passable, are better and less pricey elsewhere.

Mexica also offers vegetarian versions of the classics; I tried the burrito and the relleno. Both were cheese-less--which may make some vegetarians very happy--and both were filled with what were called marinated vegetables but which seemed more like leftover boiled vegetables.

Mexica is relaxed and comfortable enough to be conducive to involved conversations and much lingering after dinner. For this lingering it may be helpful to know that the flan is perfect--jiggly, cold, caramelly. The espresso, however, tends to be lukewarm and tastes like strong instant coffee.

Despite such occasional lapses, Mexica has compelling atmosphere, reasonable prices, some great food, and the only known portrait of El Mexica himself, the food warrior’s patron saint.

Mexica, 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 933-7385. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner nightly. Beer only. American Express, MasterCard, Visa. Dinner for two, food only, $25 to $50.