Full of Hot Air

Although souffles rate high on the list of recipes that intimidate novice cooks, they really aren’t that difficult to prepare. Success depends on getting your base the right consistency, beating the egg whites correctly and folding the two together carefully.

Another cardinal rule: It’s better to have your guests wait for the souffle than to have your souffle wait for your guests. Souffles begin deflating within minutes, so they must be served immediately.

If pressed for time, however, you can assemble, cover and store a souffle at room temperature an hour or so before baking. Alternatively, the base can be made ahead and the egg whites beaten and folded in at the last minute.

Classic souffle baking dishes are round, porcelain and have fluted sides, but any straight-sided, oven-proof mold may be used. The dish should be thoroughly buttered so the souffle mixture can expand up the sides.

Some recipes recommend attaching a collar to support the mixture as it rises above the dish. Foil, cooking parchment or wax paper may be used; a sheet about 26 inches long is usually sufficient to wrap around the dish and overlap several inches.

Fold the sheet lengthwise into thirds. Lightly butter one side of the sheet (Step 1), then place it around the souffle dish with the buttered side against the dish and extending about two inches above the upper edge. Use a piece of tape to temporarily hold the collar in place, then tie it with oven-proof kitchen twine (Step 2) and remove the tape.

Recipes often call for the inside to be coated with bread crumbs, cheese or, for a sweet souffle, sugar. Tilt and rotate the dish and collar to evenly coat (Step 3).

The base of any savory souffle is a simple white sauce. Prepare it by melting butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, then stir in flour and seasonings. Cook until the mixture bubbles at least one minute.

Remove the pan from the heat and gradually add milk, stirring constantly with a wire whisk to keep the mixture smooth. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce boils and thickens.

Once again remove the pan from the heat. Stir about two tablespoons of the sauce into the lightly beaten egg yolks, then stir the egg yolk mixture back into the sauce and place over low heat. For a cheese souffle, add the shredded cheese at this point and continue to stir until it melts. Set this mixture aside to cool.

Egg whites should be at room temperature so they will expand to the greatest volume. Beat until frothy, add cream of tartar and continue to beat just until soft peaks form. Over-beaten egg whites become dry and are difficult to fold into the heavier sauce.

First lighten the sauce by folding in one-third of the beaten whites. Add this to the remaining egg whites and gently fold the two together (Step 4) just until combined. Pour into the prepared souffle dish (Step 5) and smooth the top with a spatula.

To create a “top hat” or crown, use the tip of a knife or spoon to draw a circle on the surface about one inch from the outside rim. The portion inside the circle will rise higher than the rest of the souffle during baking.

Souffles need to be baked in the lower third of the oven so the bottom gets a concentrated blast of heat that pushes them upward. Typically they are placed in a hot oven for a few minutes, then the temperature is reduced for the remainder of the baking time.

The French prefer souffles with a soft, custard-like center, but due to today’s concern over Salmonella enteritidis in eggs, it’s now recommended that souffles be baked through. Use two large spoons to break the crust and serve the souffle (Step 6).

CHEESE SOUFFLE

Butter

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash cayenne pepper

1 cup milk

4 eggs, separated

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Butter inside of 1 1/2-quart souffle dish. Attach collar. Dust dish and collar with Parmesan cheese.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour, salt and cayenne. Cook until mixture bubbles at least 1 minute.

Remove pan from heat. Gradually add milk, stirring constantly with wire whisk. Return pan to heat and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce boils and thickens. Remove from heat.

Lightly beat egg yolks. Stir about 2 tablespoons sauce into yolks, then stir egg yolk mixture back into sauce. Add cheese, stirring until melted. Set aside.

Beat egg whites until frothy. Add cream of tartar and continue to beat until soft peaks form. Fold 1/3 of beaten whites into sauce mixture.

Add sauce to remaining egg whites and gently fold together just until combined. Pour mixture into prepared souffle dish. Gently smooth top with spatula. If desired, use tip of knife or spoon to draw circle on surface about 1 inch from outside rim.

Bake souffle at 450 degrees 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 250 degrees and continue to bake 10 to 15 minutes or until top is golden and center is just set. Remove collar. Makes 4 servings.