Taking the Easy Street : You Don’t Have to Be Superman to Hit Road

So now you have a mountain bike.

You’ve probably come to appreciate the comfort and safety the wide tires and upright handlebars afford for negotiating traffic around the neighborhood. But if you’re like most who’ve bought mountain bikes, you haven’t taken it in the dirt yet.

That’s what the industry statistics say. The term mountain bike has become something of a misnomer--most folks who buy them now just want to tool around town. European-style bikes--the ones with the skinny tires and the drop handlebars--have lost ground to the fat-tire newcomers among casual cyclists.

But the mountain-bike revolution doesn’t have to be asphalt-bound. Although many mountain bikes are now geared to the city customer, most (that is, anything costing more than $300 or so) are still built to take a reasonable amount of pounding.

Not all rides need to be of Knievel caliber. There are plenty of local rides that don’t involve breakneck descents or backbreaking climbs. Any open fire road can be an ideal candidate for a first ride away from car traffic out, among the trees and brush.

Robert Savage, a veteran mountain bike rider and mechanic (he owns the shop Wheel Precision in El Toro and sponsors a mountain-bike racing team) offers a few tips for novice riders. Many are common-sense, but keep in mind that there things that make riding on dirt different from riding on asphalt.

* Preparation. Carrying a tool kit and knowing how to use it are even more important if you’re going to be riding off the street. Spare inner tubes, a patch kit, tire levers, a chain tool and a hand pump are essential.

Proper tire pressure is also important. Tires should be inflated to 80 p.s.i. or more for riding on the street, but for trail riding, the pressure should be between 35 and 45 p.s.i. The lower pressure makes for increased traction and a smoother ride; check the tire sidewalls for recommended levels.

* Safety. “Try to always ride with other people, in case something happens,” Savage recommends. Also, he says, carry water and always wear a helmet.

* Climbing. “I just put my head down and crank the pedals,” Savage says with a laugh. “I hate climbing, man.”

The great variable in climbing on dirt that separates it from climbing on the road is traction. Lean too far forward during a climb and the rear wheel spins; put your weight too far back and the front wheel lifts from the ground. The steeper the climb, the bigger the problem.

The secret to climbing is balance. “Distribute the weight so you’re getting traction with the rear wheel, but the front wheel doesn’t come up,” Savage says. But finding that balance is largely a matter of trial and error. Climbing on dirt is hard work--but necessary if you want to get to the next step.

* Descending. Going downhill is Savage’s specialty. In July he finished second in his age division (he’s 41) at the Kamikaze downhill race at Mammoth Mountain. This despite a major spill at a race last year in Big Bear in which he broke his back after hitting a water pipe.

The important thing for beginners is to start slowly, going first on thee bunny slopes, then graduating to the bigger hills. Brakes should be used to control the speed of descent, not to make sudden stops when you decide you’re going too fast. Brakes are decidedly less effective on dirt than on the street.

Riders “have to remember that their front brakes have most of their stopping power” on descents, Savage says. But they must be used sparingly, because if the front brakes lock, the rider can be sent over the handlebars. That’s particularly true for a steep slope. The rear brakes can be of limited help in controlling downhill runs, but they can also cause the bicycle to fishtail.

Other tips: Keep your pedals level when coasting to avoid hitting the ground or rocks and other obstacles. Lift your front tire slightly over ruts and bumps.

Learning to descend safely takes perhaps the most practice. A certain amount of fearlessness helps (panic can lead to bad decisions), but caution should be the guiding principle.

Speed junkies who take their pleasure in fast uncontrolled descents are in the minority, but they do exist. They take unacceptable risks--especially true in a place as crowded as Orange County--with the safety of other trail-users and hamper the acceptance of the sport at a time when mountain bikers’ access to backcountry areas is still a touchy issue.

* Courtesy. Backcountry access also hinges on other aspects of rider courtesy. The main point is to be aware of other trail users and give them a wide berth. Because of their speed, mountain bikes are perceived by some hikers and equestrians as not only unsafe, but also disruptive to others seeking to enjoy the wilderness experience.

This is really a matter of common sense. Control your speed, slowing down to a crawl as you pass fellow trail users. Horses in particular may be spooked by a fast-moving bike. If you’re approaching hikers from behind, give them a vocal warning; bikes are very quiet. If you’re in a park or other regulated area, learn and obey the rules. And stay on the trail. Signs of erosion and other damage from improper mountain bike use is visible in several areas of the county.

* Where to go. Some popular mountain bike spots include El Moro Canyon in Crystal Cove State Park (probably the most heavily used area), Chino Hills State Park, Aliso/Woods Canyon Regional Park, and some of the inland canyon areas in or bordering on the Cleveland National Forest: Silverado, Trabuco and Black Star canyons. Several mountain bike books include Orange County trails.

* Group rides. Several clubs organize group rides. Contact a local shop for information. Savage is part of a group that rides on Sunday mornings, but the rides tend to be for riders of least intermediate skills.