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MENSWEAR : Top Designers, Bottom Lines

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American menswear designers are joining their women’s wear counterparts in unveiling less-expensive secondary collections that many Southern California stores will be banking on for fall. A stagnant economy and desire to appeal to a broader audience are motivating the move.

Some of the biggest names in menswear--Andrew Fezza, Jhane Barnes, Joseph Abboud--are part of the trend.

New and noteworthy is Andrew Fezza’s Assets label, a younger, more relaxed tailored line that will appear in Neiman Marcus and Larry Douglas stores. Although Fezza’s signature collection suits cost between $800 and $1,200, Assets prices start at $395.

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“My intention was to appeal to the young professional who can’t afford a $1,000 suit,” Fezza says of the line. “There’s (also) an older, sophisticated man who likes Armani and Hugo Boss but just doesn’t want to spend $1,200 on a suit anymore.”

Jhane Barnes’ new Barnes Storm label tops out at $130, while her signature collection prices start at $200. The lines are carried at I. Magnin as well as at Alex Sebastian boutiques citywide.

“They’re for the weekend, using more casual fabrics,” like washable denim and high-twist crepes, she explains. “They might still sell to the same customer. But he’ll wear them for a different purpose.”

Abboud is complementing his pricey tailored clothing ($1,000 and up) with a younger-looking, leaner collection of suits (around $500) under the JAII brand, available at Nordstrom and Silverwoods, Century City.

Other designers heeding the demand include Tony Lambert, whose new Street label of whimsical sportswear is sold at Bullock’s. Lance Karesh for Basco has added Basco Trade Union, a line of casual basics available at Bullock’s and Chanins. Marco Wachter for Mondo di Marco, a sophisticated Italian sportswear line, offers Pronto-Uomo casual sportswear with the same flair. Saks and Sy Devore in Sherman Oaks carry the label.

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