The Coffee Revolution : A Gnocchi Named Nucca

Restaurateur Stefano Orsini’s wife, Nucca, usually prepares the gnocchi at Osteria Romana Orsini in West Los Angeles. But, he modestly admits, whenever his wife travels to Italy, it is he who teaches the kitchen staff the nuances of this dish.

Mastering the art of gnocchi-making is no easy task. It takes talent, experience and wrist action to get the tiny dumplings, made of potato and flour, to taste like puffs of air, not bullets.

Before attempting the dish, practice handling the dough lightly. Also, says Orsini, the potatoes should be “old,” not “new,” meaning that the more starchy baking potatoes usually work better than fresh new potatoes. “The drier and more starchy the potato, the lighter the gnocchi,” he said.

Gnocchi, like pasta, can be sauced as desired. Orsini chose a butter-and-sage sauce for a simple, yet complementary final touch.

GNOCCHI ALLA NUCCA

10 medium baking potatoes

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

1 egg, lightly beaten

Grated Parmesan cheese

Butter-and-Sage Sauce

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender. Peel, then mash. Mound flour in large bowl or clean surface. Make well in center of mound and place potatoes, egg and 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese inside well. Gradually work walls of flour well into potato-egg mixture, working dough lightly, just enough to incorporate, until soft dough is formed.

Lightly roll dough into long cylinder. Cut into 4 portions. Lightly roll each portion into thin, pencil-like finger from center outward, using floured hands. Cut fingers into 1/2-inch pieces and set aside.

Bring salted water to boil. Drop gnocchi into boiling water and simmer 6 to 8 minutes, or until dumplings rise to surface. Carefully remove gnocchi with slotted spoon and drain. Serve with Butter-and-Sage Sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Makes 6 servings.

Butter-and-Sage Sauce

1/2 cup butter

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon grated onion

6 sage leaves, cut julienne

Melt butter in small skillet. Add garlic, onion and sage leaves. Saute until sage leaves discolor. Serve hot over gnocchi. Makes 1/2 cup sauce.