A Smooth Mix of Cargo, Passengers

Freighter travel is holding steady from its boom five years ago, perhaps even increasing slightly, according to Stephen K. Wellmeier, director of marketing for TravLtips Cruise and Freighter Travel Assn.

Wellmeier recommends a transatlantic freighter crossing by cargo vessel as an excellent way of getting a taste of what freighter travel is like. And he believes the ideal freighter passenger is, as always, a retired person who has plenty of time and is not inconvenienced when a ship doesn’t depart or arrive as scheduled.

“There is that niche of people who prefer traveling that way--the market is stable,” he said. “We get a lot of calls from younger people intrigued by the idea, but when they realize the time constraints, they (often) have to give it up.”

Wellmeier said that 10 years ago, space for passengers on freighter and cargo ships was decreasing, but carrying passengers has become an important consideration on most of the new cargo vessels. Freighter traffic increased along with the boom in cruising in the early-to-mid-1980s. “People are always looking for new alternatives, for new ways to travel by sea,” he said.

For dedicated freighter passengers, running away to sea aboard a cargo-carrying ship or a tramp steamer carries its own romance, with its unpredictable arrivals and departures into exotic and unfamiliar ports of call. It’s not unusual for schedules and ports to change along the route, lending an edge of excitement to the journey. The time in each port also varies widely, depending on cargo demands, which always take precedence.

In our own case, a couple of years ago we sampled what we thought was freighter travel aboard a spacious and comfortable 88-passenger cargo liner called Americana from Ivaran Lines, and spent a lot of time during the sailing listening to a retired New York City librarian complaining that the Americana was a cruise ship, not a freighter, because it was far too luxurious, despite the heap of containers stacked on deck.

“A lot of freighter regulars turn their noses up at the luxury aboard Ivaran’s Americana,” Wellmeier said. “They say it’s not a freighter, it’s too luxurious; it’s a little too cruise-y for their tastes.”

He pointed out that the Americana has become quite popular since Ivaran added a new second-person fare for the inside and outside cabins that are designated as “singles”--60% off for the second passenger, who occupies an upper berth.

But isn’t a single cabin too small for two?

“At 133 square feet, these are not bad,” Wellmeier said. “We’ve put a lot of people on older cruise ships in cabins with upper and lower berths that were not as good.”

Pasadena-based Freighter World Cruises has listed some discounted prices on certain upcoming sailings of the Americana: $400 off per passenger for departures on Nov. 26, and May 28 and Aug. 28, 1992. The full sailing along the east coasts of North and South America takes about 46 days, starting from New York City, sometimes picking up passengers en route in Savannah, Ga., Jacksonville, Fla., or Miami.

Because Americana carries more than 12 passengers, it is required to have a doctor on board, and therefore has no upper age limit for passengers, unlike most freighters.

“With so many people living longer and in better health, we get a call or more a week complaining about the age limits on the freighters,” Wellmeier said. Most have a top age limit of 75 to 82, and most discourage or refuse to take children or pregnant women. And no special dietary requests can be filled, as a rule.

We asked him about accommodations aboard a typical 12-passenger freighter.

Many of the older ships, such as those of Lykes Lines and the old American President Line, were built with special passenger quarters, he said, whereas many of the newer container ships were built when the tendency was to get away from carrying passengers. Their main concern was how many containers they could get aboard and how quickly they could get in and out of port. (“Cargo doesn’t eat and cargo doesn’t complain,” was the motto.)

Now, Wellmeier said, they are streamlining operations by getting rid of some of the officers--navigation officers and radio officers--and those cabins are being converted to passenger use as the demand goes up.

“They’re decent accommodations,” he said, “but nothing fancy.” The going rate aboard freighters is $80 to $110 a day per person on older ships. Virtually all offer either single or double cabins with private baths.

Who are potential candidates for a freighter cruise?

Only people who are flexible, undemanding, self-sufficient and relaxed about time and destinations, say the experts.

Fussy eaters needn’t apply. Meals, while tasty, are not elaborate, and are usually the same ones served to officers and crew. Don’t expect breakfast in bed or lots of extra pampering.

Since passengers dine with the ship’s officers, there’s the feeling of being “in,” of always knowing what’s going on. Many also describe a common ground with fellow passengers.

Travelers who expect an “if-it’s-Tuesday-it-must-be-Belgium” schedule should also stay away. The itinerary may list a port that is skipped at the last minute if there’s no cargo to be picked up or dropped off, and a three-day stop in Rio de Janiero may be cut to eight hours with no advance notice. Sometimes a cruise scheduled to end on the 58th day may go on until the 67th. While passengers pay nothing extra if the sailing is extended, they don’t get a refund if the cruise is shorter than estimated.

There’s no cruise staff thinking up fun and games on freighter cruises, no organized shore excursions (except a few aboard the Americana) and no orchestra playing for after-dinner dancing. The dress code is casual and passengers usually bring their own books and games, although most freighters have a small library.

Overall, life aboard a freighter is quieter, with reading and card games more important than group activities. And solitude is always respected.

“The vessels that we recommend for first-time freighter passengers are the Norwegian-registry Ivaran ships, not necessarily the Americana--which is an upscale vessel--but the Santa Fe and Salvador, an excellent product,” Wellmeier said. These 12-passenger freighters sail from Houston to South America and return to New Orleans to disembark passengers. The cruise takes about 50 days.

“We also recommend the CAST Line between Montreal and Antwerp, Belgium, because it’s reasonably predictable service as freighters go.” One-way voyages take 12 to 14 days, round-trips about 32 days.

Wellmeier said that Polish Ocean Lines and Mediterranean Shipping Co. are “pretty Spartan” for first-timers expecting something more like a cruise ship, but says passengers headed to Australia and New Zealand will find that the German-flag Columbus Line and ACT/Pace Line are quite comfortable.

Good health and mobility are essential aboard a freighter since the gangway stairs are extremely long and steep. Upper age limits are specified for most, with a health certificate often requested from the potential passenger. Prospective freighter passengers should verify with the company whether the vessel they’re considering has an elevator or not. Many do not, Wellmeier said, precluding people with impaired mobility from being able to travel abroad.

Asked about the safety record of freighters, he said: “In the three years I’ve been here, there has been no accident or emergency evacuation from a freighter. I would say they’re every bit as safe as a cruise ship. The high ratio of crew to passenger would make evacuation of the vessel quicker.” He said all freighters require passengers to attend an emergency drill; some ships even carry hypothermal suits for passengers in case of emergency.

Wellmeier suggests that anyone interested in learning more about freighter travel should call (800) 872-8584 and ask for a free copy of a booklet called “35 Most Commonly Asked Questions on Freighter Travel.”

Call Freighter World Cruises at (818) 449-3106 for a free copy of its newsletter, “Freighter Space Advisory,” about upcoming freighter departures.