Recipes From the Bottom of the Drawer

One thing all home cooks have in common: a drawer full of loose recipes. These recipes are like anxious actors, waiting in the wings and hoping for stardom.

My collection has accumulated over more years than I like to remember. Some are clipped from newspapers, some from magazines, some marked with an enthusiastic description such as “this is divine” or “the best ever.” Some have the name of the donor whom, alas, I often don’t remember.

Not long ago I fished around in my drawer and came up with Maple Mousse. It was covered with ecstatic exclamations, and since it only requires three ingredients, I tried it. It really was divine; it really was the best yet. Icy cold and creamy, it had a smooth maple-syrup taste. Served in a bowl with sliced peaches, plums or apples, it was perfect.

Another gem lying forlornly in the drawer was this classic version of Gazpacho. Gazpacho, a chilled Spanish soup that is often called “liquid salad,” is perfect hot weather food. Served as supper, it needs the addition of a little heft, so add hard-cooked eggs and serve lots of bread on the side.

The White Gazpacho surprises people who are only familiar with the tomato-based variety. In Spain they sometimes add ground or finely chopped almonds to this, but I like it better plain. Serve with warm tortillas and cheese for supper. And, of course, Maple Mousse and fruit for dessert.

GAZPACHO

5 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 large onion, chopped

1 green pepper, seeded and chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

4 cups French bread, crusts removed, torn

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon tomato paste

4 cups cold water

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Optional garnishes: 1 avocado, peeled and chopped; 2 green onions, chopped; lime quarters

Combine tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, green pepper, garlic and French bread in large bowl. Mix thoroughly. Stir in olive oil, tomato paste, cold water, vinegar and salt. Process in batches in food processor or blender (don’t blend until smooth, leave some texture).

Return soup to bowl, cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve ice cold. Garnish as desired. Makes 6 cups.

WHITE GAZPACHO

2 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup coarsely chopped onion

4 cucumbers, peeled and seeded, about 2 pounds

3 cups chicken broth

1 cup sour cream

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

Hot pepper sauce

1/4 cup chopped green pepper

3 tablespoons chopped green onions

Mix garlic and onion and divide into 2 parts. Place half of garlic and onion with 2 cucumbers and 1 cup chicken broth in food processor and process only until mixture has coarse texture. Pour into large container. Repeat with remaining half of garlic and onion, 2 remaining cucumbers and 1 cup chicken broth. Pour into container. Stir in remaining cup of chicken broth, sour cream, vinegar, salt and hot pepper sauce to taste. Mix well.

Adjust seasonings. Refrigerate until well chilled. Garnish top with chopped green pepper and green onions. Makes 7 cups.

MAPLE MOUSSE

1 egg white

3/4 cup maple syrup

1 cup whipping cream

Beat egg white until it begins to thicken. Bring maple syrup to boil. Slowly add to egg white and continue beating until all absorbed and thick, meringue-like mixture.

Beat cream in chilled bowl until stiff, incorporating as much air as possible into whipped cream. Fold into maple mixture. Pour into 1-quart mold and freeze.

Remove from freezer about 30 minutes before serving for more pleasing texture. Makes 1 quart.