OUTINGS : Main Street : Downtown Santa Paula boasts more than haircuts and hardware--from the Unocal Oil Museum to The Memory Shoppe.

There’s a lot more to Santa Paula’s Main Street than hardware and haircuts.

This may be news to county residents who see downtown Santa Paula as a place to pick up plumbing supplies, listen to the Oddfellows’ tower clock chime the hour and revel for a moment in back-to-the-’40s ambiance. But a walking tour of Main Street, Santa Paula, reveals a character of many facets.

Visitors who haven’t seen the Unocal Oil Museum will probably want to start there, in the historic turreted and domed building at the corner of Main and 10th streets. It’s hard to get away in less than an hour if you check out the vintage videos of Santa Paula’s early days, view the steam-driven oil rig and watch the Marilyn Monroe motor oil commercial.

Allow another 40 minutes for the time-warp experience on the second floor. Docents lead visitors through Union Oil pioneers’ elegant offices, which are restored and outfitted down to the inkwells and walking sticks.

The museum, open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, is free.

Next on the route is Moore’s General Store, on the opposite corner at 989 E. Main St.

Moore’s is a place so nostalgic one can forgive the Christmas display that appeared in August. Among its vast inventory are whimsical windup chickens, local crafts, Amish quilts, classic children’s books and furry creatures that spill from trunks and shelves in wild abandon.

The Book Collector, just west of Moore’s, offers rare and common used books and out-of-print searches in a bright, unmusty little shop at 973 E. Main St. It has a large children’s section and many books of poetry, music and California history.

Bente Margenat, who co-owns the shop with her husband, keeps an ancient upright piano on hand, and customers are welcome to play--but only if they are inclined toward the classical, and preferably Chopin.

A couple of doors down is a sleeper at No. 943. If you get past the bland name--The Dress Machine--and the bleak entryway, you will discover a unique collection of women’s wear that ignores fashion’s dictates. The charmingly decorated store also features a treasury of pottery, tin and enamelware items, none of which is priced.

“We barter,” said owner Judith Morgan.

Visitors who have come this far are probably cranky from hunger and anxious to find a quaint restaurant outfitted in oak, leaded glass and ferns.

They won’t. Main Street restaurateurs cater to diners whose taste is in their mouths. The establishments feature such items as gum ball machines, mismatched ceiling fans and carbon-printed daily specials.

Vince’s Coffee Shop, at 827 Main, is popular for its authentic Mexican food served with the famous chile verde (breakfast served all day).

The Chili Hut, a few doors down, draws fans to its homemade cinnamon rolls, breads and Burley Burger sandwiches (“Famous Home Style Cookin’ ”). Across the street, La Playita is known for its seafood and traditional Mexican dinners (four locations, including Las Vegas).

Beyond the Chili Hut lies the pioneer of the street’s antique shops, Harris Antique & Clocks at 720 Main, celebrating its 20th year. The tiny building, formerly a medical office, has its waiting room and examining room packed with clocks and glassware. The original bathroom is the “primitive room,” filled with early kitchen utensils, and a bargain table offers items for less than $10.

Heading east toward the starting point, browsers will note a hard-to-classify store called Mr. Nichols at 910. Proprietor John Nichols explains that he does not want to limit himself by calling it a bookstore.

“It has a life of its own,” he said. “It’s an organic entity.”

In addition to new and used books and magazines, the place harbors media relics such as used classical records, postcards, stereoscope cards and animation cels--the original artwork of animated cartoons.

The retail portion of the store is Nichols’ “day job.” His real love is curating the John Nichols Gallery of photography in the rear, which occasionally features his own works.

Casa de Flores at 918 offers fresh flowers, handmade wreaths and crafts fashioned on the premises. The workroom these days is filled with Christmas decorations in progress.

In the next block, Musselman & Luttrull Antiques & Old Lighting at No. 840 is a showcase of restored period furniture and brass lamps, set up in what feels like a formal Victorian home. The shop also restores customers’ furniture and lamps, including rewiring.

At Antiques 848 few steps away, Dan and Jim Brucker take pains to display their wares with the patina of time untouched. In the century-old Eagle Livery & Feed building, the brothers opened their doors this past summer.

The Bruckers are the former owners of an antique rental business--Movieworld of Buena Park--and their stock ranges from four-figure bronze works to artifacts of the Plains Indians. They also plan to sell a collection of vintage autos, one of which may be parked out front. The store is open Tuesday through Thursday.

To rounding out the loop, standing diagonally across from the oil museum, there is The Memory Shoppe. This business offers “collectibles” as well as antiques, from old metal roller skates to rattan furniture from the ‘50s.

The biggest challenge to the Santa Paula walking tour could be scheduling it. Sunday is the only time the Unocal Oil Museum opens its upstairs exhibit. But on that day one can’t experience the chile verde at Vince’s Coffee Shop, which closes on Sunday. So do about half of the antique stores.

Call that a flaw, if you like. But such details hardly dim the enthusiasm of Main Street regulars such as Bente Margenat in The Book Collector.

“Main Street,” she said, “is like a diamond that hasn’t been brushed.”

* WHERE AND WHEN

Local merchants have scheduled an open house Nov. 16-17 along Main Street. Most shops will be open and will serve canapes. More information is available from coordinator Peggy Jensen at Casa de Flores, 525-5587.