Shapely Shoes Are Afoot : This holiday season, the emphasis is on silhouette, instead of on glitzy ornamentation.

Last year, holiday shoes had more sequins and sparkle than Dorothy’s ruby slippers.

This season, evening shoes have taken a small step back from all that glitter and glitz.

“Gaudy trim is gone,” declares Myriam Sirota, co-owner of the new Privilege shoe store at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa.

“The emphasis is on the shape of the shoe,” she says.

In place of rhinestones and beads, there are unusual strap details, elongated fronts and sculpted heels to draw attention to the foot. Privilege’s “Caged Bird” shoe, for instance, comes in solid black suede or gold leather and encloses the foot in spaghetti straps.

“There’s always some interest in ornamentation around the holidays, but this season there’s been a shift toward the silhouette (of the shoe) as opposed to ornaments on a plain pump,” says Barbara Kasman, spokeswoman for Stuart Weitzman shoes in New York City.

Two contrasting silhouettes for holiday shoes dominate the season, Kasman says. The revealing open shoe, whether a backless mule or sling-back, shows more foot from heel to toe than the pump. One example: Stuart Weitzman’s soft gold sling-back with a crisscross strap in front, available for $198 at Neiman Marcus in Fashion Island in Newport Beach.

Charles Jourdan in South Coast Plaza has a strappy shoe in black suede or gold leather that laces up the foot like a ballet slipper for $160.

“We’re doing a lot of crisscross straps up the shoe, T-straps and mules,” says Valentin Siroon, manager of Charles Jourdan. One elegant sling-back features a narrow T-strap, pointed toe and spiked heel in black satin.

Mules, also known as slides, leave the entire back of the foot bare and have been seen on many famous feet, including Madonna’s. Many shoe designers have introduced their own version of the look, from Chanel’s subtle black satin mule with a large bow gracing the toe to Privilege’s bolder gold leather pair with oversized buckles.

Although mules resemble comfortable bedroom slippers, some find them difficult to walk in with 3-inch heels attached.

Stuart Weitzman has a mule with a clear vinyl strap in back “for the woman who wants the mule look yet really doesn’t want to flop around,” Kasman says.

In contrast with the open shoe, covered shoes that rise higher on the foot than a classic pump are showing up at evening galas. Most conform to the shape of the foot and are often adorned with a pilgrim buckle or bow along the elongated front.

Charles Jourdan has a renaissance-style shoe in black suede that rises high on the foot with gold rhinestone-studded embroidery on the back to draw the eye to a sculptured heel. For $350, they’re the perfect mates for the season’s long, full ball gowns.

The ultimate in covered shoes for evening are low booties with high heels. They’re usually found in black suede or gold leather for the holidays, and their snug fit keeps them from looking too footloose for a formal affair. Chanel’s black silk satin ankle boot molds over the foot for a shapely look. “So many shoes are clunky. I try to find shoes that are feminine,” says Roger Martin, manager of the Chanel boutique.

Chanel has also brought back the platform, but with sleeker lines than some remember from the ‘70s. When added to Chanel’s simple black satin pump or patent leather boot, platforms add a bit of drama to evening wear, Martin says.

Shoe designers have remained conservative during this recession--overwhelmingly favoring suede, silk satin and patent leather in traditional black for holiday with the idea that their customers want a shoe they can wear with a variety of outfits.

Metallics are a strong influence again this year, but they have a softer finish than in years past, according to Kasman. Stuart Weitzman offers shoes that are more the color of champagne than gold.

“It’s almost satiny rather than brassy,” Kasman says.

Weitzman also adds insets of mesh with flecks of gold or silver, or black lace with tiny black rhinestone for just a touch of sparkle.

“It’s a way to lighten the shoe and reflect the clothing, which is softer, gauzy and flowing,” Kasman says.

To be sure, designers have not completely abandoned all that glitters for evening. Due in stores soon from Stuart Weitzman: “The Cummerbund,” a mule with a wide, clear band of vinyl set with big rhinestones and a transparent lucite heel. Customers can also custom order shoes studded with faux jewels from his Pave Collection--for up to $1,500 a pair.

Heels for evening come in every height, from flats to 4-inch stilettos. Charles Jourdan’s classic “1921” pump with its 4-inch heel is a strong seller 70 years after it was first introduced. It’s available in black patent leather and metallics for evening.

Martin says most Chanel customers prefer higher heels for holiday parties. “They feel it gives them a special edge,” he says.